gardening

Abba Patio Mini Greenhouse Review

For the past few years on my Instagram feed, I have been following a good number of instagramers who are allotment gardeners in the United Kingdom. And one thing I noticed they all had, obviously because of climate, were greenhouses. Living in the southeast United States, greenhouses are not nearly as common. Our temperatures are fairly mild, even though I cannot necessarily grow year-round.

When Abba Patio reached out to me about reviewing one of their products, I immediately noticed that one of their most popular products was greenhouses. I definitely wanted to snag one for a greenhouse review. Why not try it out to see if it could be useful to me in my southern garden? The box for the Mini Walk-In Greenhouse arrived quickly, and it was much larger than I had anticipated. However, it was fun to see sitting on the porch waiting for me one afternoon!

Assembling the Mini Greenhouse

The assembly of the mini greenhouse consisted of metal poles, plastic joints, metal wire shelves, and the plastic sheeting that covers the entire structure. Setup took about 30 minutes, and several poles were leftover, which could be used as replacements down the road. Since there is no floor in this greenhouse, my husband built a small deck area just the right size for the greenhouse. (We just used scrap decking for this.)

It was a bit of a chilly day, so we actually put it together inside the house and then moved it outside. We underestimated the size of the greenhouse, so it was a little tricky getting it out of the door, but it worked. Since it is a plastic greenhouse, and not glass, we knew it wouldn’t retain heat like a glass greenhouse. We opted to put it against our brick home knowing that the house itself would provide some heat to keep the greenhouse warmer in the evenings.

The small decking pad beneath it worked perfectly and we leveled it with bricks and simply set the greenhouse on top. The greenhouse is large enough that I can step inside and easily work with whatever is on the shelves. I’m very pleased at the height it provides to comfortably work; I’m 5’6, so a tall man may find it a bit of a small space.

Keeping It Warm

Since this is a plastic greenhouse, it doesn’t retain heat the same way a glass greenhouse would. For this greenhouse review, I reached out to my subscribers to see what experiences they had with plastic greenhouses. I did hear from several folks who have the same type of greenhouse, and they suggested placing it against the home, as we’ve done, to help maintain heat. If you have a south-facing or west-facing wall that gets lots of sun, this will also help.

Emily, a TKG reader, told me she uses a gallon jug of very hot water on cold nights to keep the temperature in the greenhouse above freezing. Thanks, Emily! Right now we just have a lime tree in ours which can withstand cooler temps at night but not frost. So the greenhouse is protecting it from the frost and providing it with a little temperature buffer from the outside.

The Pros

Ease of assembly and use. I didn’t have to clear ground and build a structure. This easy-to-assemble greenhouse allows me to get experience with a greenhouse without the expense of having a larger physical structure.
Option for disassembly: I also like that it can be disassembled in the summer when I have no use for a greenhouse and stored until the fall.
Size: The compact size is also appealing. This greenhouse gives me plenty of space for large flats of seedlings and other plants that may need extra protection, but it’s not more space than I could ever use.
Value: And finally, the value. Abba Patio’s greenhouse runs about $75 which is a pretty great price for something that can extend your gardening season and get the seedlings off of my living room floor come spring. The delivery was quick, and my communication with the company has been excellent as well.

The Cons

There’s only one con we came across in assembling and using the greenhouse. The shelves, which are wire and curved on the ends, could be unstable. When the framing is fully inserted into the plastic end pieces the shelves fit perfectly. However, if the poles are not fully inserted, or slide out just a bit, the shelves become unstable and may not fit snugly.

Several of our shelves fell when I tried to adjust the poles inside. It wasn’t a huge deal because I didn’t have anything on them. However, if I had flats of plants on the shelves, it would have been devastating. This is a pretty easy fix with zip ties. So, before I put my flats of plants on there in early spring, I will use zip ties to secure the shelves just in case. (This shelf-fit issue has only been a problem on one half of the greenhouse. See the video below for a look at what I’m referring to.)

The Verdict

So overall, I would definitely recommend this small greenhouse. It’s compact, affordable, and easy to store when not in use. This greenhouse is a great value, and I’m looking forward to using it for years to come. if you have questions for me about this greenhouse, I’d love to hear them. Always feel free to reach out.

Have a great week and happy gardening!

by Courtney 2 Comments

How to Grow Blueberries in Containers

Growing Blueberries In Containers

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to walk out onto your porch or deck and gather handfuls of blueberries to snack on or to make a fresh blueberry pie? Well, my friends, you are in luck! Blueberries can be picky growers, however, all that can be solved by growing them in containers. That’s right, container blueberries are the secret to bountiful blueberry harvests, no matter what type of land or space you have available. A balcony, patio, or deck is all the space you need to grow a beautiful blueberry harvest.

How to Grow Blueberries in Containers

First things first, choose an appropriate container. A large planter with drainage holes in the bottom is best, something at least 12”-18” deep. A too-small container will stunt the blueberries’ growth. Not good! You want to give your blueberry bush plenty of room for root growth. You could even create your own self-watering planter if you want to take the guesswork out of watering.

Next, acidify your soil. The reason blueberries are called picky growers is because they need very acidic soil. This can be done via commercial products that you mix into the soil. Or, you can buy soil that is already amended and can be added right into your container, as is. Check the acidity with a pH test kit, available at most garden stores, or send a soil sample to your local cooperative extension for a free (usually) soil test.

Finally, plant your blueberry bushes in your container and place it in a location where it will get full sun or at the minimum, very partial shade. Don’t forget, blueberry bushes take time to develop. Depending on where you purchased your plant, it could be years, so be prepared to make the commitment and it will be worth it. We purchased our plants from a local blueberry farm, and they specifically sell plants that are three years old. This ensures a harvest in the first year for those of us who are buying. So, this would be a good question to ask when purchasing your blueberry plants.

(Want to try growing your own plants from store-bought blueberries? Check out MI Gardener’s video here: How to Start Blueberry Plants from Store Bought Berries)

Blueberry Bush Fertilizing Practices

The first year of your blueberry bush is the most important since you are getting it established. During this year, add organic fertilizer to your bush per the package instructions of your fertilizer. This is usually about every 2-3 months.

After the first year, don’t stop adding fertilizer! This is very important. As you water your plants, the fertilizer will drain out the bottom of the container. It will need to be replenished. Continue adding fertilizer in small amounts every month during the growing season.

Care for Your Blueberries

Blueberries need lots of water. But, they don’t like soggy soil, which is why it’s important that they are in good draining containers. Water frequently. Also, check the pH regularly to make sure the soil is still acidic enough.

The bushes will need to be pruned every year. Go gentle, just cut off the oldest branches. This will stimulate better growth from the ones remaining.

Winter Care: If you live in a cold climate, protect your bushes from the wind by placing against the side of a building. Mulch them well to retain moisture. They won’t need much watering but they shouldn’t be allowed to dry out. Other than that, they can be left alone. They will go dormant. Many blueberry bush leaves turn a beautiful shade of red before going bare.

Types of Blueberries to Grow

There are four types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, rabbiteye, and half-high that work best for container gardening. Each of these has variables based on the preferred climate and size of the berries. Make sure you get a variety that does well in your climate.

To be successful growing blueberries in containers, choose a variety that has smaller bushes. Top Hat is a good choice since it only gets 2 feet tall. Sunshine Blue gets 3 feet tall and has bright pink flowers; a very popular variety. Patriot grows 3-5 feet tall and is an early season variety, so be sure you have plenty of room and a larger pot for this variety.

Some blueberry varieties are self-pollinating, however, most need more than one to pollinate and produce fruit. (Check the label on each blueberry bush to determine if you’ll need more than one.) Plant at least three blueberry bushes for a better chance success. More blueberries, please. That’s a win-win, blueberry lover!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to Winterize the Garden

Life in the southeastern U.S. sometimes feels like summer is endless, but the fact is winter eventually does find us. And now is the time to start thinking about winterizing your garden area. Thankfully, the process of winterizing the garden to get it ready for the spring growing season is relatively easy. No matter if you use a traditional row garden or have a raised bed garden, winterization is essential. While there are a few different methods for winterizing, it’s good to know why this is a necessary step.

The Benefits of Winterizing your Garden

First, winterizing a garden after a full spring and summer of producing delicious vegetables and herbs helps to give the garden a well-deserved break. The soil that worked so hard to feed the plants in your garden space, needs to be re-energized with nutrients.

The second benefit of winterizing, is that you, the gardener, may need a rest yourself. If you aren’t planning to grow a fall or winter garden, then chances are you just need a bit of a rest. And that’s perfectly fine! Taking a break from the garden for the winter will give you the chance to get recharged and reinvigorated to grow an even better spring garden. This is especially true if you also go through the tasks of canning and preserving a lot of your summer garden goods. This is why I am so thankful that the process of winterizing is easy. Even the most worn out gardener can quickly put their garden to rest, recharging their soil and themselves at the same time.

Before Starting Winterization

Before you select the best method of winterizing, be sure to clean out any dead or dying plants from your garden space. Amy Stross, the author of The Suburban Micro-Farm, recommends taking out completely, roots and all, any plants that may have been diseased. Plants that were healthy can be cut off at the base. The top of the plant can be composted, and the roots are left in the ground for organisms living there.

The next thing you want to do is submit soil samples to your local Cooperative Extension office. Why do you need to do this? Well, it’s a fantastic service that most counties provides for very little cost to you. By simply grabbing the small cardboard boxes that your extension office provides, you are able to take multiple samples of soil from your garden and send them off to be analyzed. These soil samples help tell you exactly what your soil needs in the winter months in order to be ready for the spring. Are your nitrogen levels low? Should you be adding lime to your garden soil? Would you benefit from using a cover crop as your winterization technique? All of these questions can be answered with a soil analysis.

Methods of Winterizing the Garden

The Feed and Rest Method. This is my go-to method of winterizing my raised garden beds. Several years ago, I transitioned from a traditional row garden to using the square-foot gardening method in raised beds. (If you are not familiar with square foot gardening, I highly recommend Mel Bartholomew’s book Square Foot Gardening.) However, the Feed and Rest winterization method could easily be used in a traditional row garden as well.

This method involves feeding the soil with good quality compost, and then covering the garden beds with mulch or leaf matter. The compost feeds the soil, re-energizing it with nutrients. And the thick layer of leaves or mulch help keep weeds from taking over and also provide a nice insulating layer for your soil. This is the easiest method of winterizing. Come the spring, simply rake away the layer of mulch or leaves, add it to your compost pile or flower beds, and get to planting. Comfrey leaves, a perennial herb, can also be used as a mulch for winterizing, and then turned into the soil come spring. I do not recommend turning wood mulch into the garden soil in the spring.

Cover Cropping

The second winterizing method I recommend is cover cropping. This can be especially helpful if your soil analysis comes back with news your soil is greatly lacking in one nutrient or another. Cover cropping simply means to grow a certain crop that covers the garden bed and offers the soil some kind of benefit. The results of your soil analysis will clue you in to the best cover crop for your garden. Popular cover crops include clover and legumes as these help fix nitrogen in the soil. Mustard greens are a good cover crop and delicious too.

If using a raised bed for gardening, don’t use a cover crop that would need to be tilled in the spring. Raised beds should have loose soil and should not require tilling. Want to see what winterizing a raised bed looks like? Check out my Youtube video:

So, regardless of which method of winterization you choose, your soil will reap the benefits of having a much-needed rest. It will recharge through nutrient-rich compost or a cover crop that provides the soil with exactly what it needs. So before you hang up your garden trowel for the year, take just a little time to ensure that you have a great start to next year’s growing season.

This article first appeared in the winter 2018 edition of My Lenoir magazine.

by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to thin seedlings

If you’ve ever purchased a packet of seedlings, then you know that there’s more in a package than could actually grow in a small backyard garden. And if you’re not using the square-foot gardening method where you only use several seeds at a time, then you could find yourself with an abundance of seedlings in a small space. (Not familiar with square-foot gardening? Check out all the reasons it’s fantastic!)

This is where knowing how to thin out seedlings is so important. Thinning out seedlings gives the growing plants the room they need to get plenty of sunshine, water, and nutrients from the soil without competing with other plants that are too close to them. The process of how to thin seedlings is really quite simple.

How to thin seedlings

Step one: Go through the seedlings and find the smallest ones. They’re usually hiding underneath the larger seedlings. Pull them up by the roots and set them aside. Depending on the type of seedlings you’re thinning, you can leave 1 to 2 inches of space for smaller plants, or 4 to 5 inches of space for larger plants such as cabbage or kale. The seed package itself is a wealth of information for how far apart the plants should be spaced.

Step two: Once you finish the initial thinning out, go back after a few weeks and make sure everything has a good amount of space to grow. If the plants need more room, repeat the thinning process. Depending on the kind of crop being thinned out, the small seedlings can usually be used as micro greens in a recipe. Or if the roots are intact, try replanting them in a different place. See my video at the bottom of this post for a look at thinning out arugula. I thinned once, then came back a week later to pull a few more.

Video of how to thin seedlings

As you’ll see in my video below, I am filling out my crop of arugula. I did not adhere to the square-foot method of only using a few seeds where I wanted the plants to grow. Instead, I used most of a package in a long line much like a row garden method. Since arugula can be eaten as a micro green, I’ll be able to use the thinned out seedlings on salads, a sandwich, or in a smoothie.

And as a general rule, you can always go back in to thin more. But if you thin too much the first time, you may be disappointed in the resulting crop. So thin lightly the first round, and let your plants grow a little bit more. Then come back in another week or so and assess whether you need to thin out any more plants.

I’d love to know what crops you are thinning out this garden season, and I hope you found this helpful. Have a great week and happy gardening!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

What to Grow in a Summer Garden

Not sure what to grow in a summer garden? The bright sun and warm temperatures of summer are perfect for certain plants and herbs, find out what to grow in a summer garden!

Summer Garden Season

The summer garden season is here, and we can’t wait to bite into some fresh, home grown produce! The variety of vegetables that can be grown in the summer garden is what keeps many gardeners growing and what entices new gardeners to try their hand at growing. The combination of hot weather and (hopefully) occasional rain makes summer a perfect time to grow.

While two of the most popular summer garden favorites are tomatoes and cucumbers, there are many other vegetables and fruits that can round out the summer garden. They can help you enjoy an organic, nutrient-rich, low-cost diet all summer. In fact, during our garden bed installations this spring, I was very surprised at the number of people who didn’t like tomatoes. And if you don’t like the taste of something, you certainly shouldn’t grow it! Instead, plant some of these other easy-to-grow summer garden foods.

What to Grow in a Summer Garden

Beans

There are many varieties of bean to choose from, green beans (aka string beans or snap beans) are the most popular. Select a bush variety to grow in containers or small garden spaces. Runners or pole beans to grow well in gardens that have space for trellises or teepees. (Find out how to construct a bean teepee in 5 minutes!) Beans are also perfect for getting kids into the garden. They love to harvest beans and eat them on the spot.

Corn

So easy to grow and prepare, corn grows on tall stalks but require very little vertical space. Corn will produce two ears per stalk, and the ears are great for grilling or boiling. And though you may be used to seeing corn grown in fields and row gardens, they are just as happy to grow in a raised bed or container!

Blueberries

Though not a plant you’d start and grow in a raised bed, blueberries in the summer garden add a burst of color and taste of tart sweetness. Blueberry bushes can be grown in-ground (like a flower bed) or in containers. They prefer moist, acidic soil and a location that offers them a little shade from the afternoon sun. Plant different varieties that ripen at different times so you can enjoy fresh blueberries all summer. (Try these blueberry covers for keeping birds and other blueberry lovers at bay.)

Eggplant

The star of several Italian recipes, eggplant is easy to grow and will add color to both your summer garden and your plate. Plant in a sunny location (in-ground or in a container) but not in the same location as it was grown in last year. If you live in a warmer climate, eggplant will continue to grow into the fall, so don’t take it up too quickly!

Melons

What is summer without slices of juicy watermelon, cantaloupe or honeydew? It’s a great choice to plant and grow with kids as a summer gardening project. Choose a variety based on the amount of garden space you have. Compact plants won’t require as much growing space as traditional varieties, but will produce the same juicy melons. We grow our melons in a south-facing flower bed. This gives them plenty of room to spread out, and they run underneath our blueberry bushes, so they’re not in the way.

Okra

Here’s a heat loving vegetable that is the perfect tall plant to grow in a summer garden. Upright plants don’t take up much space and produce large yellow flowers before producing okra pods. Harvest when pods are 4-5 inches long and add to soups, stews and gumbo. Slice crosswise, dredge in cornmeal and fry until golden brown for a southern favorite. Okra is also incredibly easy to freeze for later use.

Peppers

Peppers not only produce flavorful heat, they grow best in the hot summer. The hotter the better, making them ideal for a summer garden. Easy care plants grow equally well in-ground or in containers.

Now you know what to grow in a summer garden! (And take some risks and grow something you’ve never tried before.) So take up what is no longer producing from your early spring garden, and get some of these fresh summer veggies growing. These heat loving plants should take your garden into the early fall (if you live in a warmer climate). I’d love to know what you enjoy growing in the summer garden! Have a great week and happy gardening!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

The Best Vegetables for Container Gardening

Growing vegetables in containers is a fabulous way to enjoy the fresh taste of homegrown food even when you don’t have land space. Container gardening is also an easy way to garden when you don’t want all the labor involved in a traditional in-ground garden, or don’t have the room (or desire) for raised beds. You can also use containers to supplement your current garden area. I use larger pots and two Earth boxes in my garden for more growing space without having to add another garden bed.

Container Gardening Favorites

While most vegetable plants can be grown in a container (my watermelon experiment did not end well last year), there are some that are more adaptive to life in a pot than others. The productivity of a container garden also improves when you utilize the vertical space. Using trellis to provide support to trailing plants and vines increases the produce yield. Get your containers ready and plant some of these vegetables that grow best in containers.

Carrots

Carrots need a deep pot, moist soil, and cool weather to grow their best. This vegetable does great in a pot in spring, then after harvesting, use the same pot to plant a warm season vegetable. Be sure to thin out your carrot seedlings, since you want to give each carrot plenty of room to grow large. And kids love pulling carrots, so put little garden helpers to work!

Cucumbers

If you have the vertical space for a trellis, you can grow traditional vining cucumbers. If the vertical space is not available, plant a bush variety of your favorite slicing cucumber. You’ll need a large pot and full sun location for an abundant harvest. Here in the south, cucumbers grow abundantly well into the fall. I’m actually growing my pickling cucumbers in containers this year, and my slicing cucumbers are in the flower bed. A tomato cage can come in handy to keep your container cucumbers supported.

Eggplant

These are heat-loving plants and need high temperatures both day and night, making them a suitable summer crop for container gardening. Just one plant can produce an abundant amount of eggplant, and the different varieties are so fun to try! (Southern Exposure Seed’s White Eggplant is my favorite.)

Herbs

Almost all herbs, mint and lemon balm excluded, are fantastic to grow in containers. (Mint and lemon balm tend to go a little crazy.) Herbs are also a great introduction to gardening. They can grow until you’re ready to use them, and they make a lovely decoration for any patio or porch. Did I also mention that most herb varieties help keep mosquitoes away? True story.

Lettuce

Lettuce is a cool season crop, so you can plant it in easily spring and enjoy several harvests until the weather becomes too hot for it to produce. Plant a warm season vegetable in the container for summer harvest, then follow that with a second planting of lettuce for a fall harvest.

Peppers

All pepper varieties grow on bush-type plants, making them an ideal choice for container growing. Peppers also enjoy the hot, dry conditions that are easy to achieve with a container. If the container is large enough, you may be able to fit two pepper plants!

Peas

Start with a 12 inch deep pot, then plant a dwarf or bush variety of your variety green pea for a summer-long harvest. The deep pot will help you keep soil moist for better pea production. Also, once the plant is established, mulch around the base of the pea plant to keep moisture in the soil. (A great dwarf variety to try is the Dwarf Sugar Snap variety from SESE.)

Radishes

Radishes grow quickly and are well adapted to grow in a shallow pot. Plant radishes in a container 6 inches deep and enjoy a harvest in less than one month. Just like with carrots, be sure to thin out the seedlings so that the radishes have plenty of room to grow.

Spinach

Spinach grows well in partial shade and can be grown indoors or outdoors. Use a shallow (6 inches), wide pot to grow spinach and enjoy several harvests before the weather gets too hot for it to grow. Bloomsdale is one of my favorite varieties to grow.

Tomatoes

Full size or salad size, red, yellow or pink, any variety of tomato grows well in a container. Select a bush or dwarf plant and a location for the container that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Tomatoes will benefit from a vertical support system such as a thick stake or stick. And for dwarf or patio varieties, also called determinate, don’t feel the need to prune them. Just let them do their thing. Here are our patio tomatoes so far this year. I like to plant them with marigolds to try to keep bugs at bay.

A word about water

In container gardening, it can be easy for soil to dry out. Always keep an eye on your plants and a finger in the dirt. If your soil is dry and crumbly when you press your finger into the pot, then gently water your plants. If the soil is damp and dirt clings to your finger, then you can wait to water. Self watering planters, like the one I have above or the Earth box (which I keep in the garden area) are easy, no-brainer containers for growing amazing vegetables.

So even if you don’t have tons of space, container gardening can still help you grow food of your own. Try out several things, and also remember that each vegetable comes in numerous varieties.

by Courtney Leave a Comment

Gardening in Small Spaces

No room for a large garden? No problem! Small space gardening is easy to do on a patio, porch, or balcony. Even if you have a large yard, what if you just want to start small? These tips are for you as well. Gardening doesn’t have to be a large venture. Start small and use your space wisely.

Vertical Gardens Produce More Vegetables in Smaller Spaces

A small space garden will produce more when plants are trellised and trained to grow upwards. The produce will also be bigger and healthier when grown in a vertical garden. To generate the most food from a small space garden, look for usable upward space and select the right plants.

Lift Up

By simply lifting the plants and produce off the soil and away from damaging moisture and pests they will have a better chance of survival. Upwards growing plants also receive more sunlight and air circulation, making them healthier and stronger.

Trellis Plants

A trellis can be anything that provides support to each plant and that is sturdy enough to support the weight of ripening vegetables.

Cucumbers, pole beans, peas, and melon plants send out tiny tendrils that will latch onto anything within reach and grow in that same direction, To get them to grow vertically, use support methods that provide something for the tendrils to reach up to and small enough for them to grip. Cane poles, metal or wood fence posts or wire fencing works great in the garden to support plants.

If you want to keep things even simpler, use my DIY Bean Teepee instructions to build your own or purchase a beautiful obelisk or trellis from Amazon or your local hardware store. Many obelisks can easily fit into larger pots, making them perfect for small space gardens.

bean teepee

Container Gardening

Containers are another great way to maximize growing area in a small garden space. Plants grown in containers may need to be trellised also for best production. A self-watering planter, like an Earthbox, gives plenty of growing area with an easy watering spout with no danger of overwatering. The Earthbox has an optional trellis kit, and comes with instructions that tell you exactly how many plants will fit in the box and where to place them. It’s easy gardening at its best!

Containers that can be attached to a vertical wood fence or stacked in a tier will increase vegetable growing space too. Or get creative and attach containers to the fence itself!

Feed the Soil
The soil keeps plants nourished and thriving and it must be very fertile to support vegetables growing in small spaces. Feed the soil before planting anything.

Use a quality potting mix that combines compost and peat, or use my DIY Potting Soil recipe. It’s easy to put together and can be stored in a rubber tub to make it easy to access when you need to fill a pot. Also, when using containers, you want to feed your plants with a quality fertilizer or plant food.

basil top

Small Space Vegetable Plant Choices

When selecting vegetable plants for small space gardening, look for ‘dwarf’, ‘bush’, or ‘compact’ varieties of your favorite vegetables. These varieties will provide the same full-flavor, full-size vegetable, but on smaller plants.

Succession Planting

Succession planting allows you to grow several different vegetables in the same spot and harvest multiple times from spring through fall. Start with a cool-season vegetable, like broccoli. When it’s finished for the season, plant a warm-season vegetable, like tomatoes, in the same spot. Follow that up with a planting of fall greens when the tomato plant is finished producing in the late summer. I even use succession planting in my raised beds to produce the most food in the smallest amount of space.

Succession planting will triple the amount of food produced in the same small space garden. Always add more compost to the soil between plantings to keep the soil fed.

So don’t limit your garden plans because your available space is small. Get creative, grow up, and use the same space throughout multiple seasons with succession planting. I’d love to know how large or small your garden space is and how you get creative with it. Happy Gardening!

by Courtney 2 Comments

DIY Potting Soil

Oh, potting soil. What a variety of mixes and uses we see available at the hardware and landscape store. And if you’ve been in the market for potting soil lately, then you know that it certainly is NOT cheap. Many of the bags of pre-made soil are also only 1-2 cubic feet, and that won’t fill a garden bed or too many large pots.

I’ve been mixing up my own potting soil recipe for the past year or so, and DIY potting soil isn’t nearly as intimidating as it sounds. In fact, there are plenty of ways to do it. I first began using the potting soil recipe from Mel Bartholemew’s book The New Square Foot Gardening. His recipe is very simple, and this helped me to get my footing. Now that I know a little more about available ingredients, I’ve branched out a bit.

What’s in a Potting Soil Recipe?

For many of the potting mixes found at the store, even the popular green bag offering “miracles,” they include a mix of traditional potting mix ingredients: perlite, peat moss, compost, and fertilizer. But the unknown elements listed, such as “wetting agents” and “forest products” make me wary. And since mixing up my own potting soil is simple and easy, I’ll skip the mystery ingredients and stick to the basics. Here are the primary components of my potting soil recipe:

Peat Moss/Coconut Coir– Peat moss comes from peat bogs (primarily found in Canada) where moss and other materials decompose. This decomposed moss is then harvested and packaged for use by gardeners all over the US and Canada. I have recently read articles about the environmental impact of peat moss harvesting being called into question. Because of this, some gardeners have been making the switch from peat moss to coconut coir. Coconut coir is a product produced from the coarse fibers on the outside of coconut shells. The coir comes in dense blocks that once moistened will expand. Both peat and coco coir are soil amendments that retain moisture, so they’re excellent for use in gardens and potting mixes.
Perlite/Vermiculite– The names sound a little intimidating, but if you’ve ever purchased pre-made potting mix then you’ve probably seen the white perlite chunks in the mix. Perlite is volcanic glass heated to an extremely high temperature. Once heated, it expands and pops into smaller pieces upon cooling. The small pieces are incredibly lightweight and help to retain moisture and nutrients for plants to use. Vermiculite forms from a group of minerals that, like perlite, are heated to high temperatures. The high heat creates long strands that are then broken up into various granular degrees (coarse, fine). And like perlite, it retains moisture well, so it’s commonly used by gardeners. (Which to use? Perlite drains more effectively than vermiculite, so if you live in an area that gets plenty of rain, especially in the summer, this would be the choice for you. I live in the southeast, which can have dry spells throughout the summer, so I choose vermiculite.)
Compost- Compost is pretty self explanatory, and it can come from what you’ve composted yourself or from bags purchased at the store. (Want to try composting?) I like to have a variety of composted materials, so I typically use some of my own compost and a bag or two of Black Kow compost. Decomposed organic matter, compost gives your plants a rich nutrient source. What many gardeners compost will primarily contain broken down veggies, lawn clippings, and paper. What can be purchased at the store may include composted manure, and since we don’t have cows or chickens, I’ll purchase a bit to throw in my potting soil recipe.

How to Mix Your Own Potting Soil

I typically use equal parts peat moss, vermiculite, and compost. There are lots of variations out there that use these same three ingredients but in different ratios. And I can tell you there is grace in how much of each ingredient to use. You certainly won’t kill your plants if you use more peat moss than compost, etc.

If you’re creating a small batch of potting soil, use a large rubber tub (with a lid). Place all of your ingredients in the bin and mix well. If your peat/coir is dry and dusty, use a spray or two of water to keep the dust to a minimum. Your potting soil will then be ready for use whenever you need it!

For filling a raised bed, I simply place all of my ingredients in the raised bed itself. Then using a garden hoe or bow rake, I’ll mix the potting soil recipe right in the bed.

Whether in a container or in a raised bed, this potting mix should last for years. I may add in a bit more compost each spring to give it a nutrient boost, and/or I direct compost toward the end of the fall to keep the soil rich.

Have you tried mixing your own potting soil? I’d love to know what you’ve tried and what has worked for you. Have a great week and happy gardening!

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by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to Harden Off Seedlings

Why Harden Off Seedlings?

If you’ve planted seeds indoors this winter with the hopes of growing your own garden plants, then you may be wondering how to get them ready for the outdoors. Sending your seedlings off into the great big world of the garden can seem daunting. How do I not kill these “baby” plants? Are they mature enough? I’m just not ready!!

Maybe you’re not quite as dramatic as all that. However, chances are you’ve spent time nurturing those seedlings, and you want to make sure they live as they transition outside. To Harden off seedlings isn’t a difficult task, but it does require a few steps. Just dropping seedlings into the garden, especially at the beginning of spring, when the weather may still be temperamental isn’t a great plan. In fact, gradually exposing your seedlings to the outdoors is what hardening off seedlings is all about.

How to Harden Off Seedlings

When to start? Begin the process of hardening off seedlings when the weather no longer holds the danger of frost. That will vary for each region, so be sure to check out The Farmer’s Almanac frost guide if you’re not sure. Now onto the tutorial!

Begin by placing your new plants in a shady spot outside for 2-3 hours the first day. (Direct sun outdoors is much more intense that a sunny place inside your home.)
Bring your plants in after their time outside, and be sure to keep their soil moist. Weather conditions outside may cause them to dry out a bit more quickly. Remember to water at the base of your seedlings, not the leaves.
Gradually add an hour of outside time each day, slowly exposing them to more sun. After 7 days of this gradual exposure to the weather, your plants should be toughened up and ready for transplant! This can be a transplant to your in-ground or raised bed garden or to an outdoor container.
Be sure in the days that follow that you check the moisture of your plants. You don’t want them drying out and all of your hard work going to waste. They don’t need to be doused, but be sure the soil doesn’t stay dry for long. Drying out between waterings isn’t a bad thing for most plants, but since these babies are just starting out, don’t let them go too long between waterings.

Don’t Give Up

If your first attempt at growing your own seedlings ends up in a bust, don’t give up! Growing seedlings indoors can be a bit of a challenge at first, but you can get the hang of it. Learning to grow seedlings will save money, and you’ll know exactly where your plants came from… you! Buy good quality seeds, such as those from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange or Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. Quality seeds make all the difference.

And once you have your feet wet starting your own seedlings, you can jump into saving seed for the following year. It’s super simple! Here’s a tutorial on how to Save Tomato Seeds.

Good luck hardening off your seedlings this year, and I hope you have a fantastic spring garden season. Happy Gardening!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

What to Grow in an Early Spring Garden

Spring garden season is almost here, and what better way to usher in the garden season than with some cool weather loving crops. For those of you who live in areas where gardening year round isn’t an option, then early spring is a great time to get your hands dirty with vegetables that don’t mind cooler nights. For my year-round deep south gardeners, I’m looking at you Florida and Texas, you can already have your tomatoes in the ground in some areas. I’m so jealous!

But I have to work with what I’ve got, and where I live the nights can be cool, and the danger of frost isn’t over yet. In fact, last year our last frost was on March 25th, and it got down to 27 degrees. My poor fig tree couldn’t handle it, even with being covered. So early spring gardens should be full of veggies that can stand up to the cooler temps that those March evenings can bring.

Early Spring Garden Veggies

There is a surprising number of things you can grow in an early spring garden. And many of these veggies can go right on producing into the summer, especially if you give them a little shade during those much warmer days. So consider planting taller plants in late spring beside your early spring vegetables to keep them cool and less likely to burn up in the hot summer sun.

Here are some great choices to use in your early spring garden:

Lettuce: All types! You really can’t go wrong here. Lettuces enjoy cooler weather, and a lovely salad garden is perfect for harvesting weekly and enjoying fresh salad greens. Some favorite varieties include: romaine, arugula (I consider this a lettuce), mixed lettuces, butterhead, mesclun. A garden coach I follow on Instagram, The Rooted Garden, actually offers an online course called Salad School where she teaches you how to grow salad well, so you can have fresh salad greens year round!
Beets: I have a love/hate relationship with beets. I love to eat them, but I usually plant them too late and they grow poorly for me. I’ve been reading up on beet care this winter, and I will succeed this year! They also enjoy the cooler weather, and I can truly attest to the fact that they do not do well in the middle of summer. Lesson learned. And since you can eat both the root and the greens, they work with a variety of meals! (Double chocolate beet muffins, anyone?)
Greens: While greens like collards, turnips, mustards, spinach, and kale are known for their winter longevity, early spring crops can still be grown. The young tender leaves that come first are delicious, and many greens are chock full of iron. And I do have a fantastic recipe for Balsamic Bacon Collards, because who doesn’t love a little bacon with your healthy greens?
Onions: Early spring is a great time to plant onions, especially if you like to harvest them early to use in recipes. I’m going with seed this year instead of sets, as I did last year, and I had much more success. Growing your own onions is easy, and you’ll be amazed at how much better they taste than what you’re buying at the grocery store.
Brassicas- No, we’re not growing metals here, but the brassicas family, including broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, do particularly well in the early spring weather. They enjoy the cooler temperatures with less intense sunlight, which also makes them a fall favorite. We’ve been eating a lot more cauliflower lately (though I haven’t done the pizza crust yet, have you?), so I’m going to try growing them this spring.

Our early spring garden is actually going in today, so I’d love to know what you enjoy planting in the early spring! I’ll give you some updates on my success with the beets this spring. I may have to nurture them like a newborn, but they will grow! Have a great week and happy gardening!

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