How to Grow Carrots

Growing carrots in your backyard vegetable garden or in containers on a porch or patio doesn’t have to be difficult. Check out this helpful information and tips on how to successfully grow carrots at home!

Why grow carrots at home

As with most home grown vegetables, the reason we grow them is superior taste. What you’re growing at home, will almost always taste better than vegetables that have been trucked hundreds (or thousands) of miles to get to you before sitting on a grocery store shelf waiting to be purchased. And since carrots are relatively easy to grow at home, why not give them a try?

Carrots are also a well-loved vegetable, even for the pickiest of eaters. Their bright colors and sweet taste make them a joy to grow for kids and adults alike. And there’s no vegetable my kids enjoy harvesting more than carrots! Full of beta-carotene, fiber, and vitamin K-1, carrots are packed with good stuff for your body, and that leaves you feeling good.

Did I mention carrots are one of the easier vegetables to store for long term use? It’s true! But let’s get down to the business of how to grow carrots.

When to grow carrots

When is the best time of year to grow carrots? This is a great question, and one most gardeners ask before setting out their carrot seeds. Carrots grow well in the cooler months (not cold) of spring and fall. They don’t do well in the blazing hot sun of the summer, so be warned.

If you’re further south, you can begin carrots earlier than most to beat the heat, or start them later in the fall. For northern growers, make sure your soil is workable (try raised beds, so you can grow anytime!) before setting out carrot seeds.

The best soil for growing carrots

Soil is important for all vegetables and herbs but especially carrots. Carrots to NOT like richly composted soil, i.e. soil that is full of Black Kow manure compost or something similar. In fact, carrots do well in soil that may be a touch depleted from a heavy feeding crop. For example, if you’ve grown corn or tomatoes in an area of the vegetable garden during the summer, consider growing your carrots here afterward. (Carrots Love Tomatoes, right?)

Carrots also like loose, sandy soil for good drainage and for the large roots that you’ll eventually harvest and eat. You can imagine that carrots cannot grow properly in hard, compacted soil. This can lead to short, stunted carrots that are no fun for anyone.

How to plant carrot seeds

Sowing carrot seeds isn’t difficult, but it is a bit different from most other types of seeds. Carrot seeds are tiny, and therefore it’s important to follow these tips for planting:

Don’t sow carrot seeds on a windy day (you may lose most of them)
Lightly scatter the carrot seeds in the area you’re planting
Gently pat the seeds into place, but there’s no need to push them down deep into the soil
Spray the seeds with a gentle shower of water (we love this rain shower head for our hose.)
(optional) Consider laying a damp cloth over your new seeds to keep them moist. This cuts down on the chance that they may blow away or get burned by the sun.
Many carrots take two weeks or more to germinate, so don’t lose heart if you’re not seeing green tops after a week or so. Be patient. (I hear it’s a virtue, especially for gardeners.)

Fertilizing and caring for carrots

Watering: Carrots don’t need huge drenching water sessions, but they do well with light, consistent waterings. Up the amount of water once the carrots roots are established. All that carrot growing, takes a bit more water! Lack of water can result in hairy carrots… just an FYI!

Thinning Carrots: Since carrot seeds are scattered, instead of planted individually, then chances are you’ll need to thin them. This simply means you’ll go through and make sure no two carrots are two close together. Carrot roots do require room to grow, and they don’t like close neighbors. If you can, gently pull the carrot seedling you’re trying to remove, being careful not to disturb the carrot next door.

Another option is to take a small pair of pruning snips and trim off the part of the carrot crowing above ground (the greens). This will keep the lower half from continuing to grow. This method ensures you do not disturb neighboring carrots.

Fertilizing: Once your seedling are established and the tops are growing, feed carrots with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer with low-nitrogen.

How to harvest carrots

Now the fun part, harvesting your carrot crop! Here are some easy carrot harvesting tips:

Harvest carrots in the morning if possible
Smaller carrots actually have better flavor, so don’t worry about letting your carrots get to mammoth size!
If your soil is loose, carrots can just be gently pulled by the green tops.
For spring carrots, harvest before the heat of summer.
For fall carrots, feel free to let your carrots go through a frost or two to sweeten the flavor.

Storing and using fresh carrots

Carrots grown in the vegetable garden or in containers can be stored using a few simple tips.

Wash off carrots and remove the green tops (Compost them!)
Place washed carrots in sealed plastic bags in the refrigerator
If you’re further north, and have access to a root cellar, carrots can also be stored here as well.

Common carrot pests and diseases

Garden pests can just be the worst, but chemical fertilizers can be even worse for you and your garden. So what are some common carrot pests and diseases and how can you take care of them naturally?

Carrot Rust Flies– While the adults won’t harm your plants, the eggs the flies lay at the base of your carrots will hatch, dig down, and feast on your carrot crop. Row covers are an effective deterrent from carrot rust fly.
Aphids– The uber annoying pest of the garden. These tiny bugs can be blasted off of your carrot greens with water or sprayed with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Flea Beetles– Try neem oil or insecticidal soap if you see these tiny black beetles on your crop.
Powdery Mildew– See our full article on getting rid of and preventing powdery mildew.

Popular varieties of carrots

Rainbow Carrot Seeds- Eden Brothers
Parisian Carrot Seeds– Eden Brothers
Scarlet Nantes– Eden Brothers
Tendersweet Carrot Seeds– True Leaf Market
Purple Garden Carrots– True Leaf Market
Chantenay Red Carrots– True Leaf Market

So get out there and get those carrots growing in your home vegetable garden! You’ll be snacking on sweet and crunchy goodness before you know it!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to Prune Fruit Trees

Though the idea of cutting back trees to produce more fruit may seen counterintuitive, it really is the best thing for your fruit trees. But there are right and wrong ways to prune fruit trees, so stay tuned!

Why prune fruit trees?

In order to grow a sturdy tree that produces and supports a full harvest of delicious fruit, a gardener must invest some time in pruning. Pruning and training a young plant is important in order to establish a healthy tree with a solid structure that can support the crop for years to come. And be sure to first check out my article on How to Plant Fruit Trees to get you set up for success.

Thinning, or removing branches, is also your first defense against pests and disease. When branches are cut off, the tree’s canopy is opened to allow sunlight penetration and better air circulation. Branches that are shaded don’t tend to produce fruit.

Annual pruning also allows you to control the size and shape of your tree for functional and aesthetic purposes. We have all seen those mangy looking fruit trees that are too tall to be cared for properly, with the fruit hanging high up in the branches. Good for the birds, but not for the tree owner.

An unpruned orange tree with lots of fruit out of reach.

Pruning can seem overwhelming and sometimes down right scary, especially when asked to cut a bare root tree down to knee height after planting. (Yep, really!) I hope you find some insight and encouragement from this article as a new or experienced backyard tree grower. The bottom line is, don’t overthink it, or allow uncertainty to keep you from pruning. This video from Oregon State University has some good information as well. Another useful option is to check with your local extension office for more hands-on help.

The benefits of keeping fruit trees small

For a backyard orchard it is ideal to maintain your trees at a manageable size, especially if you have a smaller yard. You will be grateful for a small tree when it comes time to spray, prune, thin, and especially harvest the fruit.

Fruit that ripens high in the branches will fall to the ground and rot, inviting pests and disease, not to mention the mess left behind. And though you can certainly compost rotten fruit that has hit the ground, having lots of rotted fruit is much more work on you.

Another benefit of small trees is something called high density planting, meaning planting several trees close together. The advantage is that you can plant more varieties of fruit in a limited space. Pruning is essential if you go this route, and it works well for many trees, even if they’re not actually labeled as a “dwarf” variety. For more info about high density planting or the backyard orchard movement, see Dave Wilson’s site.

What’s the best time of year to prune?

A combination of winter and summer pruning can be implemented to maintain a healthy tree that is kept to a manageable size.

Winter, when the leaves are off, is the best time to make your pruning cuts. Late in the dormant season is ideal because pruning wounds made late in the season tend to heal faster. Also, choose a drier time to make your cuts to reduce the chance of introducing disease. Moisture is not your friend when pruning, so watch the weather. Also, when the tree is dormant and bare, it’s easy to see which branches should be trimmed back to a bud (heading cuts) or removed all together (thinning cuts).

Summer pruning, usually done just after harvest, is the most practical method of pruning for size control. Heading cuts, those made just back to the bud, made in the winter encourage rapid new growth, but reducing the canopy in the summer reduces the capacity for new growth, and controls vigor the following spring.

How to prune fruit trees

The Planting Cut

Right after planting, cut the new tree off at knee height, about ¼ inch above a bud, (picture showing the bud and distance) and cut any existing lower branches back to one bud. This encourages the formation of low scaffolding branches (you want about 4 or 5 evenly spaced around the truck) and equalizes the canopy and the root system. This is also a good time to paint the trunk of the young tree with white latex paint to protect it from sunburn and discourage boring insects.

Training branches

Most people haven’t heard about training branches, but it is a very useful practice to ensure the optimal crotch angle of branches. For most trees you want a 45 to 60 degree angle between the branch and trunk or limb (crotch angle). This gives the tree the best structure to prevent the limbs from breaking under the weight of the fruit.

To increase this angle, you can use toothpicks or clothes pins for a young tree and make or buy spreaders as the branches grow thicker. String is also used to pull in or decrease the crotch angle. Another important prevention practice is fruit thinning which we will cover in another post.

Basics of fruit tree pruning

First remove dead, diseased, broken, or crossed branches. This is important to maintain a healthy plant and reduce the opportunities for pests or disease to enter. Also look for redundancy, and remove any branch that is growing directly above another one within a close proximity.
Central leader and open-center are the two most common training systems. Central leader, used for apple and pear trees, is characterized by a single main upright trunk like a christmas tree. The open-center or vase-shaped system is exactly as it sounds and is recommended for any tree in your backyard orchard. The main leading branch is removed keeping the center free of branches and upright shoots in order to allow sunlight to reach the lower fruiting wood.
To prune to an open center, remove any branches growing into the center of the tree. Also, make heading cuts to the scaffolding branches for the first 2 years to promote continued lateral branching and stiffen/strengthen the scaffolds. Cut at a 45 degree angle ¼ inch above a specific outward facing bud.
Remove suckers that grow from root stock whenever you see them coming up. Watersprouts, or rapid upright growth coming off the branches should be trained, or removed according to the ⅓ rule (see below).
⅓ rule: remove no more than 30 percent of the plant’s canopy in a year to prevent stimulating rapid new growth. Be patient, it takes time to retrain a tree that has been neglected.
It’s important to make a clean cut with a sharp sanitized tool to prevent damaging your tree (consider these bypass loppers). Never cut into the collar which can damage the tree and cause decay.
You should make it a habit to prune your fruit trees every year. Both in the dormant season to create a great shape, and in the summer for size control.

Frequently Asked Questions

What tools do I need for pruning?

Hand pruning shears
Loppers
Pruning saw with 8- to 15- inch curved blades and wide set teeth.

How do I clean my tools between cuts?

Use rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, or 10 part water to 1 part bleach solution to sterilize your tools. Make sure you clean your tools before moving on to another tree, or before every cut if you suspect disease. Also, remember to keep them well oiled and sharp. See my post on how to clean gardening tools for more tips and a video.

How to prune back older trees that have gotten out of hand?

It will take about 3-5 years to transition back to a manageable tree since you shouldn’t remove more than 30 percent of the canopy in a year. Other options are removing the tree altogether and planting a new one, or re-grafting.

Fruit Tree and Bush Articles

Need help growing, pruning, and protecting your fruit trees and bushes? I've got you covered with these articles straight from the backyard orchard.

DIY Blueberry Bush Covers

How to Prune Blueberry Bushes

How to Plant Fruit Trees

Tips for Growing Strawberries

by Courtney Leave a Comment

Free Kids Gardening Printables

Happy Spring! There’s no better reward than watching children get interested in how plants grow and what it takes to grow the food they eat. As a backyard gardener for years, my kids have come to love eating from the garden and helping with planting and harvesting. My hope is that these free gardening printables will help your kids get excited about growing a garden, too.

Gardening scavenger hunt

This scavenger hunt will get the kiddos outside and hunting for things in nature. Trees, bugs, flowers, grass… all the things that grow and thrive out of doors. Have kids work in teams or on their own, and if your kids or group are competitive, use a prize or reward for the one who finishes first!

You could also use this as a video scavenger hunt for those older students who can use cameras responsibly.

Seed Investigator

This activity will require some seeds on hand. Place the seeds on a table and number them will a small piece of paper. Have students guess what each type of seed is and write it down. Be sure to pick some challenging seeds, such as onion and lettuce, and also have a fewer easier ones like potato and corn.

This is also a great way to review the parts of a plant! Use the diagram to walk students through the roots, stems, and leaves of plants, and have a plant on hand if you want to go even further.

Garden Planner

Even if you have no intention of planting a garden, letting kids use their imagination of what they’d grow if they could is still a fun activity. Don’t be limited to the veggies and fruits listed on the page. Add whatever vegetables, herbs, and fruits they like to eat and then research how much space it takes to grow them!

It’s just possible that all this garden planning may actually lead to growing a real backyard garden.

My hope is you’ll enjoy these free garden printables with your kids and be able to spend a bit more time out in nature. And a huge bonus if a garden grows as a result!

Kid's Garden Activities

Want to get the kids involved in growing a garden at home? Here are some fun activities to keep kids engaged in how things grow and they may even get their hands dirty!

Plastic Cup Greenhouse

Create a mini greenhouse with two plastic cups. Perfect for watching seeds grow or starting seeds indoors before moving them to the garden.

Seed Activities for Kids

Start seeds at home with these super fun seed activities for kids!

10 Fun Gardening Activities for Kids

From recycled plant hangers to bee houses, create all kinds of garden fun right at home!

Egg Carton Seed Starters

Don't let those cardboard egg cartons go to waste. Use them for DIY Seed Starter Cups!

Leprechaun Milk

A fun green milk to get your kids in the St. Patrick's Day spirit, and to get some healthy spinach in their bodies as well.

by Courtney Leave a Comment

Plastic Cup Greenhouse

This mini greenhouse is made with just two plastic cups, easily purchased at the dollar store. And it’s a great way to show kids how seeds grow at home or at school! All you need is a few cups, soil, seeds, and tape!

Mini greenhouse with plastic cups

I’m always trying to come up with new ways to get kids involved in gardening, and this mini greenhouse made from plastic cups does just that. The clear plastic cups provide a way to watch the growth of the seed inside, and they keep the heat and moisture in, acting like a greenhouse.

Not only is this a great activity to see how seeds grow, but it can also be an easy way to start seeds indoors without a full tray and seed starting set up. This plastic cup mini greenhouse would be perfect for any gardener just wanting to start a few seeds indoors. Here’s what you’ll need to create these little planters.

And before the supply list, if you want to make a larger greenhouse or coldframe to sit on top of a raised garden bed, check out my DIY Coldframe tutorial made from old windows.

Mini greenhouse supplies

8 oz plastic cups (wide mouth)

seed starting soil

seeds

water

tape

paper for label

How to make a mini greenhouse

Gather supplies together. On a small piece of paper, write a label for whatever type of seeds you’re growing. Use a piece of tape to adhere label to one of the cups.

2. Fill the labeled cup 3/4 way up with seed starting mix. Make a half inch hole in the middle of the soil.

3. Place seeds inside the hole and cover with more soil, just below the edge of the cup.

4. Water soil thoroughly, but not so much that water pools at the bottom of the cup.

5. Place second cup on top of the first and use a small piece of tape to connect the top cup to the bottom one (like a hinge).

6. Place cup in a sunny spot and wait. Within a week you should see your seed sprouting and growing. Because of the moist growing conditions in the greenhouse, you shouldn’t need to water unless the soil feels dry to the touch.

7. Once the plant has grown to the touch the top of the second cup, remove it and use it for another greenhouse.

That’s it! Let your plant keep growing in the cup or harden off your plant and move it outside to the garden.

What seeds to start indoors

When it comes to starting seeds indoors, I tend to go for those that I really want in my garden this year and are difficult to find at my local plant sale. This includes:

Heirloom tomatoes
Ground cherries (so hard to find!)
White eggplant
Carolina wonder peppers

So if there’s a hard-to-find plant you really want to grow, then these mini greenhouses made from plastic cups will be perfect for starting a small amount of seeds indoors. You could also use plastic take-out containers with clear lids. Reuse what you have!

I’d love to know if you’ve made DIY mini greenhouses at home and what you’ve used for them. Comment below and let me know!

Yield: 1 Greenhouse

Plastic Cup Greenhouse

Create a mini greenhouse with two plastic cups. Perfect for watching seeds grow or starting seeds indoors before moving them to the garden.

Active Time 10 minutes

Additional Time 7 days

Total Time 7 days 10 minutes

Estimated Cost $5

Materials

2 8 oz. plastic cups
Seed Starting Mix
Seeds (I used bean seeds)
Water
Tape
Label

Instructions

Gather supplies together. On a small piece of paper, write a label for whatever type of seeds you're growing. Use a piece of tape to adhere label to one of the cups.
Fill the labeled cup 3/4 way up with seed starting mix. Make a half inch hole in the middle of the soil.
Place seeds inside the hole and cover with more soil, just below the edge of the cup.
Water soil thoroughly, but not so much that water pools at the bottom of the cup.
Place second cup on top of the first and use a small piece of tape to connect the top cup to the bottom one (like a hinge).
Place cup in a sunny spot and wait. Within a week you should see your seed sprouting and growing. Because of the moist growing conditions in the greenhouse, you shouldn't need to water unless the soil feels dry to the touch.
Once the plant has grown to the touch the top of the second cup, remove it and use it for another greenhouse.

Recommended Products

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by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to Start a Garden Bonus

This is just a quick bonus lesson for those of you thinking about what type of garden you’d like to have. You’ve already chosen a spot for your garden in Lesson One, so now, exactly what kind of garden will you grow?

Watch my video below for some help on knowing what kind of garden may work best for your space and also your gardening goals:

Row Garden Pros and Cons

Row garden pros:

Less expensive to start (if your soil is good)
More space for larger crops
No construction needed

Row garden cons:

Weeds and grass easily creep in
Soil testing is necessary
Watch for compacting soil

Raised Bed Garden Pros and Cons

Raised bed garden pros:

Less weeding
Good drainage
Can be hip height for less bending over
Easy to freshen up soil
Great for root vegetables that need loose soil

Raised bed garden cons:

Cost of bed construction
Beds must be filled with soil
Smaller growing area
Garden beds may break down over time

Hopefully, this information will help you make an informed decision, and if you were simply considering a container garden, then I lump that in with the raised garden bed. The components are similar since you’d need to purchase soil and materials.

Here are some helpful instructions for those wanting to build their own raised bed:

DIY Raised Bed Garden

Simple Cedar Raised Bed Garden

DIY Self-watering Planter

Feel free to ask any questions you may have in the comments below! I’d love to know what type of garden you’ll be growing this year!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to Start a Garden: Plants and Seeds

As a beginner gardener, if you’re wondering when to use plants and when to use seeds, then you’re not alone! What are the benefits to using seeds in the garden? What are the benefits of plants? And are there drawbacks to plants and seeds?

Before you dive into this lesson, did you miss lesson one or lesson two? Be sure to catch up!

I’ll cover all of these beginning gardener questions for you in my video below!

Seeds vs. Plants

Benefits of using seeds:

Less expensive
More for your money
Easy to find a greater variety of plants
Easy to have seeds shipped to your home
Can be saved and stored for years

Cons of using seeds:

Some varieties are difficult to germinate
Getting from seed to established plant can take a while
More supplies needed to begin seeds
When starting indoors, certain temperatures and conditions are needed

Benefits of using plants:

Plants are already established
In some cases, you can begin harvesting immediately
Easy to see what you’re getting

Cons of using plants:

More expensive than seeds
They may be diseased or have pests already on them (which could infect other plants in your garden)
Less variety available

Should you use plants or seeds?

The answer it, it depends. That’s such a classic gardener answer, but as I mentioned in the video, there will be some crops that you’ll have to use seeds. For example:

carrots
peas
beans
radishes

But there are plenty of other plants out there that can be grown either from seed or plant, and you’ll have to decide which method suits your gardening style best. If you want to be in control of what you grow and exactly how it’s grown from the beginning (and have time), then opt for seeds. If you are just trying out a small garden this year and aren’t confident, then use more plants than seeds.

There’s no right or wrong, except for the short list above. Feel free to leave any questions you may have below for about using plants or seeds. Our next lesson will be the final one, and it’s all about planting and watering!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

Garden Soil in Your Backyard

Soil is the one of the most important elements of a successful vegetable garden. And be sure not to call it dirt, master gardeners (at least where I live) get sensitive about that. Dirt is what you track inside the house on the bottom of shoes; soil is the living matter that support the growth of grass, trees, bushes, and other tiny organisms that you can’t see outside.

What is soil?

Soil is a living, breathing thing that has many important jobs:

Filters water (yep!)
Habitat for living organisms (think earthworms, but there are thousands more!)
Environment for plant growth
Recycles waste products

And as you probably know, there are many different types of soil out there. Some areas may have loamy or sandy soil, while others are plagued with clay-heavy soils. Gardeners across the country (and world) have to first determine what they’re working with to know how best to plan their garden.

Most undisturbed soil is primarily made up of three layers:

Topsoil– The topmost layer, and what you’re probably most familiar with.
Subsoil– This layer usually has a bit more clay and less organic matter than topsoil
Parent Material– This varies greatly based on where you live and even in your state, different regions will have different parent materials. Bedrock is an example of a parent material.

What makes good soil?

Good soil isn’t necessarily what comes in a bag from the hardware store. You may actually have some good soil in your own backyard, but before I tell you how to test your soil, let’s talk about what soil is made of. I mentioned earlier what soil does, but did you know that soil (much like a fancy cake) is made in layers? Yep, it’s true!

The most popular soil types found in backyards are:

Sandy or Coarse Soil– This soil doesn’t hold water well, which also means that nutrients are flushed out of it easily. This type of soil means fertilizers will be a must.
Clay or Finely Textured Soil– This soil does hold water and nutrients well, but it’s difficult to work with since it’s hard when dry and sticky when wet.
Loamy or Medium Textured Soil– Typically this soil will have more organic matter in it and holds moisture relatively well. And since they also hold nutrients, this type of soil is fertile for growing.

Which of these sounds like what you have in your backyard? The next step to learning more about the garden soil in your backyard is to have it tested.

How to Test Garden Soil

Having garden soil tested is much more complicated than it sounds. It definitely doesn’t involve you buying a microscope and wearing a lab coat, though you certainly could if you wanted. My recommendation for soil testing is to use the resources of your state’s soil testing lab.

Get in touch with your local Cooperative Extension office and stop by for a soil testing box. Once you have the box, here’s what to do:

Wait to take a sample when your soil is fairly dry. (i.e. not after a day of rain.)
Dig down into your soil six inches and scoop out some soil.
Then find another spot and repeat the scooping process.
Fill your sample box with soil from around your garden for the best mix.
Close up the box and fill out the paperwork that accompanies it, so you can give the lab the best information possible.

Can you submit more than one sample? Absolutely! I usually do at least two. One for my raised beds, and one for the area where my blueberries and figs grow.

How long until results I see my results? That depends. Most labs are busy in the late winter/early spring, so be prepared to wait several weeks during that time of year. The fall is a slower time, so if possible, send your sample in the fall for a quick turn around.

How to read a soil test report

Note that my test was listed as a “vegetable garden” which is important, since soil test reports can give recommendations based on what you’re growing in that area.
Ph– The Ph of the soil tells you how acidic or alkaline your soil is, and plants are sensitive to this in soil. As you can see on my sample, my soil Ph is a little higher than optimum. Since it wasn’t too alkaline, and I wasn’t planning to grow acidic soil-loving plants in this area, I just left it alone. But if you soil does need to have it’s Ph raised or lowered, check out this great article from Clemson University on “How to Change the Ph of your Soil.” Lime is typically used to increase the Ph of garden soil, and you’ll see on my report that they recommend no lime since my soil is alkaline.
Nutrient Levels– The phosphorus and potassium index for my soil is on the right side of the report, and they were off the charts. I remember being very surprised by these results, but you just have to roll with it. Because there’s nothing I can do to really lower these numbers, you’ll notice that they recommend the only fertilizer I use be a 21-0-0. This means the fertilizer has no phosphorus or potassium added, since my soil needs none.

Soil testing at home

There are home methods of testing soil, though I haven’t used them myself. I prefer to let someone else do that for me, but if you’re interested in trying it out, there’s some great information and products out there. Here are some ideas:

Soil Texture Test/Jar Test: For testing the texture of your soil (not the nutrients) try this step-by-step tutorial from Clemson University.
How to Test Soil Ph at Home from Preparednessmama.com
3 Simple Soil Tests from The Farmer’s Almanac

If you try any of these out and love them (or not!) let us know below! I may need to just branch out and try them myself. Whichever method you choose, definitely learn more about your soil, so you know what you’re working with. Have a great day and happy gardening!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

It’s All About Garden Soil

How to Start a Garden: Lesson Two

You’ve made it to next lesson in the How to Start a Vegetable Garden series, and this will be all about soil! If you skipped lesson one, be sure to go back and watch it, so you don’t miss out on choosing the perfect spot for your vegetable garden.

Now that your garden site has been chosen, let’s talk all about garden soil! It’s definitely the life of your vegetable garden. That rich organic matter that sometimes gets called dirt is actually a living, breathing thing! And though you probably don’t think much about the soil beneath your feet, it’s very complicated and extremely important to our life here on Earth.

Let’s check out the second video in the How to Start a Garden series:

So what are you thinking for soil for your garden? Using the existing soil or filling up a raised bed with purchased soil?

More garden soil information

Want more information on exactly what soil is? What about how to read a soil test if send soil off to be tested? I’ve got you covered with a more in-depth article for those of you who want to take your soil knowledge to the next level.

All About Garden Soil

DIY Potting Soil Recipe

by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to Start a Garden Lesson One

Starting a garden doesn’t have to be difficult or daunting. In fact, by following along with this video series, you’ll be able to get started today!

Lesson One: Choosing a garden location

Starting a garden begins with choosing a proper garden location, one that gets sufficient amounts of sunlight during the day. Check out the lesson here:

As the video mentioned, your task is to create a sun map of your yard, so you’ll know the best spot for a new vegetable garden. This will guarantee that your new garden gets the sun that it needs to flourish. The tutorials needed to complete this assignment are below:

How to Make Sun Map

How to clear a spot for a garden

If you’re opting for an in-ground garden, or need to clear and level a place for raised bed, then you’ll have a little more prep work before getting started. As I mentioned in the video above, you have two choices for clearing a space.

Hand Clearing– Using a flat-head shovel to first clear away the grass, then come back through with a small hand tiller or a heavier duty tiller. The tilling is only really necessary if you’re planning for a traditional in-ground garden, and even then, keep tilling to a minimum to preserve the health of your soil.
Cardboard/Tarp– This method works especially well if you’re just trying to kill grass before placing a raised bed. Large pieces of cardboard (or a tarp if you’re in a pinch) can be place down on the ground (and weighted down with pavers or something heavy). After a week or two, the grass beneath the cardboard will die away and the spot will be ready for placing a bed or tilling if you’re creating an in-ground garden.

Lesson 2: All about soil!

Have questions about choosing a spot for your garden? Leave a question below; I’d love to help out!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

Vegetables that Grow in the Shade

Do you have a small yard with lots of shade? Or perhaps even just a patio or porch with just a tiny bit of light? If you’re working with a shady area, no matter the size, there are vegetables that grow in shade. Delicious shade-loving vegetables can give you an abundant harvest!

How to Determine Shady Areas

For planning out a garden or flower bed planting of vegetables, a sun map is essential. Sun Mapping your yard or growing area allows you to be informed about how much sun each area of your yard receives. This information is crucial for deciding what can be grown in the different areas of your yard.

Not sure how to make a sun map? I’ve got a full tutorial for you right here!

Light Requirements for Shade Vegetables

When one hears the word shade, you may think about no direct sunlight at all. However, areas of shade in your yard or garden may simply have limited periods of light during the day, or they may be under shade trees where they receive dappled light during the course of the day.

Just a few hours of light during the course of the day is all many shade-loving plants need. If the light the plants receive is dappled, then they can probably tolerate more than 2 hours.

Soil Requirements for Shade Plants

For growing vegetables in the shade, there are some requirements for soil to ensure that roots don’t rot in the case of damp weather.

Well-drained soil. Since shady areas don’t dry out as well as those in full sun, be sure that your shade vegetable garden has well-drained soil.
This is easy to accomplish if you use a raised bed, which naturally drains well, but if you’re growing in the ground, test the drainage of your planting area ahead of time.
Non-compacted soil. Many root vegetables are good choices to grow in shade and part-shade, so loose soil is best for these below ground vegetables.
Away from roots. If you are planning to plant in the shade of other plants or trees, be sure to use a raised bed to ensure your vegetables aren’t fighting (and losing) for nutrients from these larger plants.

Best Vegetables for Growing in Shade

Arugula– This peppery green is perfect in salads
Asparagus– The hardy perennial grows well in part shade locations.
Beets– With both an edible top and bottom, beets are an all around winner. These cool weather favorites grow well in part or dappled shade.
Bok Choy– Another good fall choice, this tasty green is fun to grow.
Brussels Sprouts– Tasty and fun to grow, they do well in part-shade areas.
Broccoli– Especially the smaller varieties, broccoli doesn’t do well in full, hot sun.
Buttercrunch– A delicious lettuce variety that does well in shady areas.
Cabbage– In part-shade these spring and fall favorites can flourish, but keep them well watered and fed.
Chinese Cabbage– Typically used more as a salad green, these varieties grow well in shady areas.
Endive and Escarole– These lettuce varieties enjoy the cooler temps that shade provides.
Kale– Beautiful and delicious, kale can tolerate the cooler temps that shade brings.
Mizuna Greens– With it’s spicy/peppery kick, this is a fabulous addition to salads.
Parsley– a biennial favorite around here, parsley holds up well in either full sun or part-shade.
Radishes– Quick to grow and easy to harvest, these can easily be grown in succession for multiple harvests.
Rhubarb– A northern favorite, this ruby-stemmed gem does well in shady spots.
Romaine– We almost always have a front porch planter of shade loving salad greens, including romaine. Simply harvest the outer leaves, and let it keep growing.
Spinach– This hardy green can bolt in full, hot sun, so shady conditions work well.
Sugar Snap Peas– This spring favorite produces well in part-shade areas. In fact, full, hot sun can slow production
Swiss Chard– Beautiful and delicious, this colorful green can grow in part-shade conditions.
Turnips– One of my favorite fall vegetables, and a soil builder as well, turnips grow in shady conditions.

Tips for Growing in the Shade

As mentioned above, be sure to check your soil for draining if you’re not using a raised bed.
Use compost to dress your plants.
Grow in containers, so your plants can be moved around. This will give you the flexibility to get your shade loving plants a bit of sun, especially in cooler temperatures.
As always, have your soil tested before planting. This is a free or low-cost service from your local Cooperative Extension office.

I’d love to know if you grow anything else successfully in the shade! Feel free to comment below and let us know.

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