How to Treat Powdery Mildew

Your plants are growing well, producing fruit, and then you notice a white residue forming on some of the leaves. What could it be? You wonder. Powdery mildew is a common plant affliction that typically strikes late in the growing season. It looks just like its name indicates- white powder all over the plant. How can gardeners prevent powdery mildew, and once it’s appeared, how to treat powdery mildew?

What is powdery mildew?

Powdery mildew starts on young plant leaves and looks like raised blisters that cause leaves to curl. Soon afterwards the plant will look like it has been dusted with white flour. Flower buds won’t open after this point and leaves will turn brown and drop. In my garden, cucumbers and zucchini tend to be the most susceptible to powdery mildew, but it’s certainly not limited to these plants.

Roses, zinnias, cucumbers, beans, squash, pumpkins, and tomatoes are also highly susceptible to powdery mildew. High humidity and low soil moisture set the stage for this fungal disease to attack plants. So, if you’re having a particularly hot summer with little rain, and you live in an area (like I do) with higher humidity, then you’re in a prime environment for powdery mildew. However, all is not lost.

There is hope for the plant if the disease is caught in time, and there are ways to prevent powdery mildew from attacking your plants.

Preventing Powdery Mildew

Sunshine and air circulation are key in preventing powdery mildew from developing on plants. For larger, bushier plants such as zucchini, squash, and large tomato plants, this will mean pruning. Pruning back some of the leaves and their stems will ensure proper air flow and less chance of powdery mildew. (See my article on How to Prune Tomatoes.) MI Gardener also has a great video on pruning back zucchini to avoid powdery mildew.

Other methods to prevent powdery mildew is to keep soil evenly moist and water in the morning so moisture won’t remain on plant leaves for a prolonged period of time. I also try to avoid wetting the leaves if possible. Using a soaker hose system or hand watering at the base of plants can help significantly with this.

Use a slow release plant food to avoid excess nitrogen in the soil which can lead to excessive new growth on plants. Powdery mildew prefers to attack new plant growth instead of the older, tougher growth.

You can also wash foliage once a week to prevent powdery mildew by blasting it with a water hose to wash off any fungal spores that may be on the plant. Do this in the early morning so it will dry quickly in the sun.

An effective home remedy used as a preventative measure is homemade powdery mildew milk spray. This organic and simple recipe uses just milk and water. Create the milk spray with 40% milk and 60% water combined in a spray bottle and spray plant leaves every 2 weeks.

How to Treat Powdery Mildew

Knowing how to treat powdery mildew must begin at the first sign of infestation in order to save the plant. Begin by pruning off all diseased limbs and leaves. Dip pruning shears into a solution that is 9 parts water and 1 part liquid bleach between each pruning cut to disinfect snips and prevent disease spread. You certainly don’t want to spread the powdery mildew during the pruning process.

Dispose of all affected plant parts properly and clean debris off of soil. Don’t place the pruned leaves and limbs in your compost, instead throw them away.

Then apply a 2-inch layer of organic mulch on top of soil to prevent powdery mildew spores that may be in soil from splashing back onto plant during watering. This is also a good preventative to keep your soil moist and hopefully avoid powdery mildew altogether.

Finally, you could also spray plant with an organic fungicide mixed according to package directions. This may be the simplest route if you’d like to knock out the powdery mildew, but I would also do this in conjunction with pruning off affected leaves and stems.

Powdery Mildew Over-Wintering

Finally, powdery mildew spores over-winter in plant debris and evergreen leaves. Take some of the preventative precautions mentioned above if any of your plants have developed this fungal infection, odds are the spores are still lurking around. Knowing how to treat powdery mildew should make the next infestation of your plants easy to tackle, and preventative measures will hopefully reduce the chance of having it.

I’d love to know if you have any suggestions for getting rid of powdery mildew or preventing it. I’m always looking for new gardening tips and helps. Leave a comment below to let us know and have a great week. Happy Gardening!

How to Freeze Tomatoes (It's so Easy!)

Knowing how to freeze tomatoes will help you preserve your summer tomato harvest without having to drag out the canner and jars! It's quick and easy!

Prep Time 10 minutes

Active Time 20 minutes

Total Time 30 minutes

Materials

Fresh Tomatoes
Gallon Freezer Bags
Sharp Knife
Sharpie

Instructions

Wash tomatoes and cut into quarters.
Scoop up quartered tomatoes and place in labeled ziploc bags.
Seal bags and place flattened in freeze to conserve space.
Use frozen tomatoes as needed.

Recommended Products

As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.

by Courtney Leave a Comment

DIY Tin Succulent Planter

I confess. When succulents first started becoming popular, I was not a fan. I’ve always loved plants that are big and blooming, and for the most part, succulents are the opposite of this. But what succulents lack in showiness, they make up for in ease of maintenance. Succulents are not incredibly fussy. In fact, if you do mother them too much, they may just die on you. (Speaking from experience here.) So now that I’ve gotten on board with succulents, I’ve been looking for creative ways to create succulent planters. And this cookie tin from my childhood turned out to be the perfect DIY tin succulent planter!

I had the privilege of teaching a 4-H Gardening Camp last week, and one of the bonuses of this was taking home a few extra succulents and some potting soil. What a win! Since the kids in the camp couldn’t plant a garden in the two days we were together, we focused on plant care and planning. One of our projects involved making a self-watering planter out of a mason jar, rocks, and milkshake straws. (I’ll post this activity later.) The 4-H director had grabbed succulents as the plants of choice for these planters, and she just happened to have some extras.

Why choose succulents?

As I mentioned earlier, succulents are fairly low maintenance, and this is perfect for low-key gardeners and children (who may forget their plants…whoops!). But they also come in a large variety of shapes and sizes. There are trailing succulents, such as string of pearls or string of bananas, useful succulents like aloe, and others. So there’s really something for everyone. In fact, in my first succulent planter project (DIY Hanging Succulent Planter), I chose string of banana succulents because they are so beautiful cascading down the side of the planter.

DIY Tin Succulent Planter

I chose this tin because it is a throwback to my childhood. I remember getting this tin full of cookies when my family and I lived in Wiesbaden, Germany, so it always brings about sweet memories (pun intended). The bright colors have retained beautifully, and it’s such a fun image on the side. I used to use it for Christmas cookies, but its smaller size doesn’t hold all of the cookies we now bake each December. So, it’s been sitting in storage for the past few years and is finally getting some new life.

So feel free to grab a tin from the dollar store, a yard sale, back in the kitchen cabinet, or from the thrift store. Any tin will do as long as it’s deep enough for the succulents you’ve chosen. If you don’t like the design on the side of your tin, feel free to take a little spray paint to the outside. (I’m all about spray painting planters over here!)

Also, see the video at the bottom for a step-by-step of the entire process!

Here’s what you’ll need for this project:

Tin (with or without lid)
Succulents (the amount and variety are up to you)
Potting Soil (I use a mix for succulents because it drains well)
Rocks

How to Put Your Succulent Planter Together

Begin by placing a single layer of rock in the bottom of your tin. Fill in around the rocks with a bit of succulent soil.
Still in their containers, place your succulents in the tin and determine how you want them arranged. Feel free to play around with what goes where. Remember, to keep taller plants towards the back. Once you’ve decided on placement, turn plants upside down and gently squeeze the sides of the container. The succulent should come easily out of the container. Use fingers to break up any soil around the roots and then place in tin. Repeat with the remaining succulents.
Using the succulent soil, fill in any gaps between succulents.
Use a damp paper towel to gently wipe away any soil that may be stuck to the edge or sides of your tin succulent planter.
Display! (Follow any care instructions that came with your succulent. Many prefer sun and infrequent waterings.)

DIY Tin Succulent Planter

Use an old tin for a creative way to display succulents!

Prep Time 5 minutes

Active Time 10 minutes

Total Time 15 minutes

Materials

Tin (any size, as long as it's deep enough)
Succulent Soil
Succulents
Rocks

Instructions

Begin by placing a single layer of rocks in the bottom of the tin. Then place succulents, still in pots, in tin so you know how you want them arranged. Set succulents to the side.
Spread a thin layer of succulent soil on top of the rocks. Gently squeeze the plastic containers the succulents are in and release them. Break up the soil and roots at the bottom of each plant and place in the tin.
Use succulent soil to fill in any gaps in your planter.
Display! And follow the care instructions that came with your succulent.

Recommended Products

As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.

I can’t wait to see the planters that you’ll create. Feel free to drop a comment below and let me know what kind of tin you’ll be using. Have a great week and happy gardening!

by Courtney 2 Comments

How to Freeze Zucchini

When zucchini decides to make its appearance in the garden, it comes in fast. Just a few zucchini plants can turn into mounds of zucchini on your countertop. And while this can give you plenty of inspiration for sauteed zucchini and onions, fresh zucchini muffins, and grilled zucchini, you may eventually burn out on zucchini recipes. So, how do you freeze zucchini for use later? It’s easy, so let’s get started!

How to Freeze Zucchini

Unfortunately, zucchini isn’t as easy as some other summer favorites, like blueberries. (Find out how to freeze blueberries, too!) Learning how to freeze zucchini requires knowing about enzymes that will cause your frozen zucchini to discolor. In order to be sure this doesn’t happen, dropping chopped zucchini in boiling water for a few minutes ensures your zucchini will be lovely and green when you pull it out of the freezer. This simple blanching process is used for many vegetables before they can be stored in the freezer. So let’s get started freezing zucchini to use later! (Be sure to check out the video at the end for the full process!)

Step One:

Get a large pot of water (unsalted) on to boil. (I love enamel coated cast iron dutch ovens, but if you need something lighter, go for it!) While waiting for the water to boil, go ahead and chop up your zucchini into half inch chunks. This is a great size to use in minestrone in the winter. Once your water has reached a boiling point, drop in your cubed zucchini and let boil for just 2-3 minutes. You’re not trying to cook the zucchini, just kill off those enzymes.

Step Two:

While your zucchini is in the pot, prepare a large bowl of ice water and set to the side. (I love this HUGE stainless steel bowl for ice baths. It holds a huge amount of veggies and is very light.) Drain your zucchini in a colander and immediately dump into the ice water. Give the zucchini five minutes or so to cool completely in the ice water.

Step Three:

Return zucchini to the colander to strain off any excess moisture. While zucchini is draining, go ahead and prepare your freezer bags or containers by marking with the date. This way, you’ll know just how old the zucchini is and what bag/container you need to use first. If you have a Food Saver system, you can also prepare your bags for vacuum sealing.

Step Four:

Use a large spoon and transfer zucchini from the colander into freezer bags/containers. I like to put enough in each bag for a single meal use, this way I’m not trying to thaw out a partial bag. Place your bags flat in the freezer for easier storage, and be sure they’re label side up!

When to use frozen zucchini

Zucchini from the freezer won’t be as versatile as fresh zucchini, so skip trying to make zoodles. But frozen zucchini is great for putting in soups and stews in the winter. Try this recipe for Easy Minestrone by Two Peas and their Pod. Also, if you shred zucchini and freeze it, then it’s perfect for muffins and breads.

And freezing zucchini to use later in the year is just one of the garden goods I like to store for later. Here are some more ways to preserve the harvest:

How to Freeze Blueberries

How to Freeze Okra

How to Freeze Green Beans

How to Freeze Zucchini

Freezing zucchini to use later in the year is quick and easy. So no matter if you're growing an abundance of zucchini in the garden, or got an armload from the Farmers' Market, freezing zucchini is a great way to have it on hand in the fall and winter.

Prep Time 10 minutes

Active Time 5 minutes

Total Time 15 minutes

Difficulty Easy

Materials

Zucchini

Tools

Quart Ziplock Bags (or Food Saver Bags)
Sharpie
Colander
Large Bowl
Dutch Oven (or large pot)

Instructions

Place a large pot of water on to boil. While water heats up, chop zucchini into small chunks.
Add zucchini to boiling water and cook for 2-3 minutes. While zucchini is boiling, place ice and water into a large bowl and set a colander in the sink.
Drain zucchini and immediately dump into ice water bath. Allow zucchini to cool in ice water bath for 5 minutes.
Drain zucchini. Label quart bags with a permanent marker and begin to fill the bags with cooled zucchini.
Place bags flat in freezer and take out as needed!

Liberty Garden Hose Reel Cart Review

On the hunt for a way to keep your hose organized? Me, too! Our hose was a jumbled mess for a few months while I went back and forth on what I wanted in a hose cart. Liberty Garden graciously offered to send me one of their hose carts for review, and I happily agreed. Could the Liberty Garden Hose Reel Cart be the solution to my garden hose mess?

We’ve been dealing with a tangled hose here lately since we recently had a new spigot installed closer to the garden area. Our other spigot is right on the patio, and after Hurricane Matthew tore through in the fall, we no longer had a hose caddy since ours was mangled in the storm. I’ve been putting off purchasing a new hose reel because I just wasn’t sure what I wanted. And after the new spigot was installed, I knew I didn’t want to have a hose in both locations. In fact, I didn’t really want a hose on the patio at all. The only time we would use that particular spigot would be to wash our vehicles or the boat after we brought it in from the salt water. So the hunt began for a hose cart.

What is a hose reel cart?

A hose cart is a hose reel on wheels. This way the hose reel can be easily moved from spigot to spigot. The area between our spigots has pine straw covering the ground, grass, and brick paths, so I knew I wanted something that would be able to traverse all that with no problem. I also wanted something that wouldn’t be cumbersome. Height was important as well since I didn’t want to have to bend over to move it. Most hose reel carts come in either 4-wheel or 2-wheel varieties. I wasn’t super picky about either one, but the four wheeled carts tended to be built for longer hoses which isn’t what I really needed.

Liberty garden products

While Liberty Garden isn’t sponsoring this post, they did offer to send me a hose cart to try out to see if I liked it. the wonderful folks at Liberty Garden suggested one of their most popular carts and sent it to me within a day. I was super impressed at the prompt delivery, and they are company right here in North Carolina where I live, so I love that.

Liberty Garden Hose Reel Cart Review

As you’ll see in the video below, when I first began to take the hose reel out of the box, it was a bit awkward since it is completely metal. But as far as putting it together, it wasn’t very difficult. It took me about 15 minutes and the pieces went together easily. Reading all of the instructions before you begin putting it together is helpful, so you know exactly what you’re doing before you start.

Putting on the hose

When it came time to actually put my hose onto the reel, all of the hookups turned smoothly, and it was clear to see which direction my hose needed to be wound in. Our hose had been in a mangled mess on the ground for several months, so it was a bit tricky getting it onto the reel at first. However just to make sure, we tested it again. We unwound the hose and re-reeled it (is this a word? I’m not sure.). Since this particular hose cart does not have a hose guide, it does require you to use your hand to guide the hose if you want a very smooth and even pattern on your reel. But this is an issue that I can probably overlook since my hose had been in a tangled mess on the ground for the past nine months. Anything other than that is a vast Improvement.

Moving the Reel

I tried for the first time to move the reel from spigot to spigot last week, and I was super impressed at how easily it travelled. I pulled it behind me, and the handle is at a perfect height for my size, but it is also adjustable for those who may be taller. My kids are able to move the hose reel cart as well, and this means they can easily help me in the garden. The handle itself is cushioned (woot!), and the tires never go flat. That is a total winner in my book and also what I love about my Gorilla Cart. I also love the fact that the Liberty Garden Hose Reel Cart has a basket along the back. I’m able to keep both my watering wand and my hand sprayer (along with pruners) in the basket. They had been laying on the ground next to the house before this, so it’s a real help to my organization! (Notice a pattern to my general haphazardness in the garden?)

I definitely recommend this Liberty Garden hose reel cart for anyone who’s looking for a sturdy and stylish way to store their hose and wants to be able to move it from one place to the next. Liberty Garden does have other hose reels that can be mounted onto the side of a house and other items for the garden. I highly recommend checking them out, and they have an entire storefront setup on Amazon to make it even easier to purchase garden products and have them delivered to your home in 2 days if you have Prime. the video of my review is below as well as some links to some of their other products that may fit needs for other gardeners.

Some Liberty Garden Products that I like: (And see the video at the end!)

Wall Mount Hose Reel with Guide

Wall Mount Directional Reel (So Fun!)

This mounted reel has some definite advantages if you have a wide garden area with raised beds to navigate around. I love how the reel turns.

Other Gardening Helps:

Companion Planting for Herbs and Vegetables

How to Get Rid of Japanese Beetles

How to Attract Pollinators to the Garden

by Courtney Leave a Comment

Amazon Prime Day Deals 2019

Amazon Prime Day Deals

It’s that time of year again when Amazon runs two days of amazing deals. These deals are good for all Amazon Prime members. Not a member yet? You should definitely consider it. The benefits include:

Prime Delivery: Free 2-day shipping on almost everything
Prime Exclusives: Get access to exclusive deals, not just on Prime Day.
Prime Video: Access to a library of movies and tv shows including some exclusive to Prime (Jack Ryan was awesome!)
Prime Music: Access to a library of music of various genres

You don’t want to have to sift through the site looking for home, garden, and kitchen deals, so I’ve done the work for you. Here are some of the best deals going on during Prime Day, but be sure to watch how long they’re active, because all of the deals run on a clock. And once they’re done, that’s it! Let’s check out the Prime Day Deals!

Prime Day Garden Deals

AeroGarden Harvest (Classic) with Gourmet Herb Seed Pod Kit, Black

Grow good things indoors with the classic Aerogarden Harvest! This is a great deal at almost 50% off!

Fire Sense Hammer Tone Bronze Patio Heater

$129.99 (reg. price: $229.99)

I’ve always loved these heaters for the patio or porch to extend the months you can sit outside. Now you can snag one for a fraction of the price!

Orbit 58995 Pro Flo 7-Pattern 14″ Thumb Control D-Grip Wand

$14 (Reg. Price $18)

I love a watering wand for ease of watering the garden without having to bend over. Here’s a good deal on a wand that has excellent reviews!

Costa Farms Chinese Money Plant, Pilea Peperomioides, Sharing Indoor Plant, Mid Century Planter and Plant Stand, White, 14-Inches Tall

$38 (Reg Price: $55)

This money plant comes in a fun mid-century planter and is a fantastic indoor plant. Perfect for your home or as a gift, this plant has distinctive round leaves, like money!

4-Ft Raised Garden Bed – Vertical Garden Freestanding Elevated Planter

$125 (Reg. Price: $199.90) Plus there’s an extra 5% off coupon!

Short on space but still want to garden? This vertical garden gets great reviews and gives you 5 tiers of growing space!

Galvanized Raised Garden Beds for Vegetables

$39.00 (Reg. Price- $50)

Need a raised bed in a hurry? This galvanized metal bed gets good reviews and is 4x3x1 ft, perfect for a backyard garden!

WINNER OUTFITTERS 6-Pack 7 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots with Handles

$5.00 (Reg. Price: $15)

Grow bags are an easy way to have containers around without worrying about storage. And these bags provide great aeration to your plants. Grab this 6-pack of bags at an amazing price!

gonicc 8″ Professional Premium Titanium Bypass Pruning Shears

$14.50 (Reg. Price- $40)

This is a great deal on top rated titanium bypass pruners. I may upgrade my cheaper Fiskars variety this year!

DESIGNA Metal Rolling Storage Cart 3 Tiers

$37 (Reg. Price $58)

This cart is perfect for all of your gardening supplies. I have one, and the shelf bottoms are not solid, so they’re easy to wash off and keep going!

Sunnydaze Rolling Garden Cart with 360 Degree Swivel Seat & Tray

$70 (Reg. Price- $110)

This garden cart is perfect for those who can’t be on their knees in the garden. Consider it for yourself or as a gift for someone else, and the price is great!

Scuddles Garden Tools Set – 8 Piece Heavy Duty Gardening tools With Storage Organizer

$21.59 (Reg. Price $50)

This 8-piece ergonomic tool set with caddy, gloves, and sprayer is an Amazon best seller with fantastic reviews!

Lawn Sprinkler, Automatic 360 Rotating Adjustable

$11 (Reg. Price $19)

This leak-proof sprinkler gets good reviews on Amazon and can cover a 360 degree area!

Prime Day Kitchen Deals

Zojirushi BB-PDC20BA Home Bakery Virtuoso Plus Breadmaker

I have an older model of this bread machine, and it has been wonderful. It’s 8 years old and still going strong! At 30% off, this is a deal!

Cuisinart CIPS22-24H Open Round Cast Iron Fry Pan

I love using cast iron pans and this pre-seasoned 10 inch pan is 50% off and less than $12!

Canning/Mason Jar Accessories

Sprouting Lids for Wide Mouth Mason Jars

Plastic Screw Top Lids for Regular and Wide Mouth Jars

Mason Jar Soap Dispenser Lids

Stainless Steel Lids for Wide Mouth Mason Jars

Foaming Hand Soap Lids for Mason Jars (love these!!)

I’ll be updating this list throughout Monday and Tuesday, so be sure to check back to see more deals!

Have a great day!

by Courtney Leave a Comment

How to Care for Azaleas

Azaleas are one of the all-time favorite spring flowering shrubs. An established azalea can live for decades and produce colorful blooms from late winter till early summer, depending on the variety planted. Learning how to care for azaleas is an important part of their success, so find out how to properly care for your spring bloomers.

How to Care for Azaleas

Hummingbirds, bees and butterflies are all attracted to the sweet nectar and pollen of the azalea. The evergreen shrub looks great in the landscape year around, though the 2 to 3 weeks of blooms each spring are definitely the highlight of growing azaleas. Use these planting and care tips so you can enjoy the beauty of azaleas in your landscape.

Where to Grow Azaleas

Azaleas are understory plants, meaning they prefer to grow under taller shrubs and trees and/or along your home in flower beds. They will need a little shade from the afternoon sun, so if you can’t plant them under a taller plant, place them in a location where they will be shaded in the afternoon. We have most of our azaleas along the front of the house, where they receive good morning sun and are shaded from 1pm on. If you’ve never considered the parts of your yard that get the best sun for growing azaleas, then consider creating a Sun Map to help you assess your yard. It’s an easy way to know what areas of your yard receive the best sun for growing certain plants.

Best soil for Azaleas

Azaleas also love acidic soil, and all species of conifer trees increase the acid level of soil. Under the shade of pine trees is the perfect location for a grouping of these flowering beauties.
But, any well-draining soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 that is well shaded is an ideal location. Soil acidity can be raised with the addition of compost and/or pine straw. If you’re not sure what your soil pH is, then I recommend having a soil test done. This is a (usually) free service from your local cooperative extension office, and it will give you results on your soil pH, nitrogen, and phosphorus levels. This is invaluable to any gardener who is wondering about the best place to put plants and whether the soil is right for that plant.

Planting Azaleas

Azaleas have high-growing roots and will not tolerate being planted deeply. So beware to plant the top of the root ball right at ground level and not lower.
The planting hole should be shallow, but twice as wide as the original container. Gently remove the shrub from the container. Loosen roots with your fingers and place in the center of the planting hole. Back-fill the planting hole with 50% original soil and 50% compost. Water well.
Space azaleas 3-4 feet apart as they can get quite large once they’re older and more established.

Mulch and Fertilize Azaleas

Azaleas must be kept mulched year around due to their shallow root system. A 3-inch layer of pine straw, hay or other organic matter will keep roots cool, protected and moist.
The mulch will slowly decompose and add nutrients into the soil, but a little springtime feeding is also a good idea. After the shrub has finished blooming add a garden trowel of compost around the plant base and water well.

An acidic fertilizer specifically formulated for azaleas can be used instead, but good, rich compost is the best choice. My recommendation for an acidic fertilizer is Espoma’s Holly Tone; it’s great when you don’t have fresh compost on hand.

Pruning Azaleas

Keeping azaleas pruned properly is an important part of healthy growth and maintaining an attractive shape. (See my full post on How to Prune Azaleas to see how we brought our 50 year old azaleas back to “life”.) Prune azaleas immediately after they have completed their blooming cycle, if needed. All azaleas set their blooms for next season right after they finish blooming this season. If you wait too long to prune, you will be cutting off next year’s blooms.

Knowing how to care for azaleas will give you consistent blooms each year and a healthy plant overall. And healthy plants are much less susceptible to diseases and pests. Plants that are struggling to survive actually attract pests and have weakened defenses against disease. So, caring for azaleas by planting them in the proper location and soil type will give you the upper hand in having healthy shrubs.

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Plants that Repel Mosquitoes

Mosquitoes can ruin a summer outdoor activity faster than a weed in fertilizer. Everything from a child’s birthday party, to a backyard BBQ, to a garden wedding can be ruined by a infestation of hungry, biting mosquitoes. They’re looking for a meal, and your exposed arm, leg, or anywhere in between is fair game. Mosquitoes can keep us from wanting to spend time in our own yards, especially in the early evening, when they’re most active. Thankfully, toxic chemical sprays aren’t the only effective means of repelling mosquitoes. There are certain plants that repel mosquitoes, and that’s a win for our garden and our bodies!

Knowing which plants repel mosquitoes is important. Not only are mosquito bites painful, but they can pose a serious health risk to those who are bitten.

Keep yourself, family and guests safe from mosquito bites this summer by including these plants in your landscape. If you don’t have flower beds near your patio or porch area no problem! Plant some of these helpful plants in small containers so they can be moved around on the deck, porch or backyard as needed.

Plants that Help Repel Mosquitoes

Basil

Basil is a lovely, compact herb plant that emits a scent that repels mosquitoes. The plant is also toxic to mosquito larvae, so plant basil near standing water to deter mosquitoes from laying eggs. Not only can this annual herb help deter mosquitoes, but it’s perfect for use in recipes and preserving for use later in the winter. (Try my post on pruning basil for larger, fuller plants and for drying basil to use later.)

Bee Balm

This is a tall, fragrant plant that produces a red or purple flower and is the perfect addition to any backyard space. Bees, butterflies, and birds are attracted to the flower, which is wonderful for pollination and pest control. And the scent of bee balm helps repel mosquitoes, so it’s working double-duty in your yard to attract pollinators and deter mosquitoes!

Bee balm is often used to make tea and jelly. Be sure to plant in full sun and adequately water if planted in containers. (Seed Needs has a wonderful variety of Bee Balm, so consider adding this favorite to your garden area!)

Catnip

It’s not just for felines! This is the number one plant choice for repelling mosquitoes. Catnip is in the mint family (sometimes called cat mint) and contains the chemical nepetalactone, which is a strong mosquito repellent. Nepetalactone and other chemicals naturally found in catnip make it more effective than DEET, a chemical found in most insect repellants.

Cats are extremely fond of this plant, so use it only in cat-friendly locations.

Citronella

Most people are familiar with this scent as it is often the repellant used in candles and burning oil for outdoor torches. But citronella actually refers to a plant, not the candles you can buy at your local hardware store. The strong scent put off by the plant does a great job of repelling mosquitoes.

The citronella plant will reach a mature size of 6 feet tall and equally as wide, so consider this when planting. Citronella also grows well in partial shade unlike many of the other plants that repel mosquitoes.

Garlic

Grow a few cloves of garlic in your garden to help keep mosquitoes away. They dislike the scent of raw garlic and are less likely to bite a person who has recently eaten garlic, so load up! Garlic is usually planted in the fall and harvested in summer, so planting a few cloves will not only give you fresh garlic, but it can repel mosquitoes all fall and spring long. Garlic also doesn’t take up much space, so you can interplant it with other mosquito repelling plants to increase your mosquito-free area. (I like to purchase my garlic from Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Don’t plant garlic from the grocery store, which has been treated to prevent sprouting.)

Lavender

Lavender produces a calming fragrance and spike of lovely purple flowers, but mosquitoes hate it. Grow plenty of lavender in your landscape for beauty, fragrance and a mosquito-free environment. You’ll have the added bonus of being able to harvest the lavender to use indoors.

Plants will reach a mature height of 3 feet and is easy to grow in containers. Lavender also makes a wonderful low hedge if you’re in need of structure in your garden area.

Lemon Balm

Fragrant and edible, lemon balm is an herb with a mild lemon flavor and is often used in soups, marinades, teas and jams. Lemon balm is also known for its calming effect and helping ease anxiety. As a bonus, it will also repel mosquitoes.

A member of the mint family, lemon balm also help settles an upset stomach and it’s an ideal plant for growing in small pots. Though not as aggressive as mint, lemon balm does have the tendency to spread when planted in the ground, so just be aware. If you have a friend who is growing lemon balm, chances are you can ask for a volunteer to add to your own yard. (Here’s a great recipe for Lemon Balm Simple Syrup that is a wonderful addition to tea!)

Marigolds

Marigolds are the workhorse flower in the garden, and I’ve featured them before in my post about Flowers to Grow in a Vegetable Garden. These scented beauties keep away a lot of garden pests, including mosquitoes.

Plants marigolds around the garden and in small containers in your outdoor space to keep pests at bay. Some varieties of marigolds are also edible, so consider this when planting them.

Other Ways to Repel Mosquitoes

Besides using plants to repel mosquitoes, deter mosquitoes in your yard by eliminating areas where they tend to thrive. Areas of standing water are perfect mosquito breeding grounds, so pour out water that is unnecessary. Our garden wagon tends to hold water after a rain, so we’re careful about pouring out the standing water. Also, gutters and the lower ends of down spouts can also be attractive to mosquitoes.

If you have bird baths, ponds, or other areas where water is necessary, then consider using Mosquito Dunks or Bits. These contain BTi (Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies Israelensis) to make the mosquito larvae non-viable. So you can attract the mosquitoes to your water source and then eliminate any chance of new mosquitoes hatching. BT is safe for humans and animals and is the same product I use for cabbage worms in the garden.

So don’t let mosquitoes ruin your outside time, and avoid having your entire yard sprayed with toxic chemicals. We had our yard sprayed for two seasons, and I knew that the spray was killing more than just mosquitoes. So protect your yard from overkill by using gentler methods of mosquito control.

And I’d love to know if you have other plant suggestions for preventing mosquitoes. Leave a comment below and share! Happy Gardening!

DIY Brick Garden Edging

As a gardener, and someone who likes things to look pretty, I love the thought of edging. Garden edging, whether used to separate a flower bed from the lawn or the garden area from the lawn, is incredibly helpful. Not only does it serve a functional purpose, but garden edging can be beautiful.

Creating your own brick garden edging isn’t incredibly difficult, but it certainly will be a weekend project. Our project began last spring when we took up our old brick patio. The old patio was over 50 years old, and was making “waves.” So the brick came up, and we had a new concrete patio poured. In the process, we made our patio area larger and created a curve. I knew I wanted a flower bed along the curve for some gardenias, as well as perennial herbs. My problem arose though when the grass began creeping into my new flower bed, and the lack of definition on one side of the bed. You can see what I mean here:

Apparently, I like structure, and this bed seemed to be spilling out onto the lawn. Lucky for me, the old patio bricks had been stacked onto a pallet and were waiting to be used. Lucky me. The project of creating the brick garden edging took a weekend, but I wasn’t working full days. Here’s what you’ll need to complete the project.

DIY Brick Garden Edging Supplies

Bricks (how many depends on how long of an edge you’re creating)

Flat Head Shovel or a Square Garden Spade with a long handle

Sand

Level

Landscape fabric or newspaper (optional)

Garden Kneeler (for the the sake of your knees, ha!)

How to Install a Brick Garden Edge

First, determine where you want your edging to go, and using the corner of your shovel, create a line along the outermost edge of where the bricks will be placed. We initially marked our line with the shovel, and then went back over the line with the weed eater to make it even more prominent. This will allow you to get a good idea of the shape of your edging before you start digging and laying down the brick.
Once your line is completed, use your flat shovel or garden spade and begin digging a trench from the line you created and in toward your bed or garden. I knew I’d be using a brick lengthwise and then another brick widthwise for our brick garden border, so I measured the brick length and width and used this measurement to know how far in to dig. Only dig a few feet of edge at a time. This will give you a chance to work with and place the bricks and determine if you like how the edging is laying.
Once you have dug the trench and it is the appropriate depth and width for the bricks, place a thin layer of sand in the bottom of the trench. (You could also add newspaper or landscape fabric beneath the sand to prevent weeds and grass from popping up.)Then begin laying your bricks. We chose to have an inner edge of bricks on their side with bricks running lengthwise coming off of those. You could choose to have a single row of bricks to make things more simple. Have a small garden spade handy to ensure small pockets of soil aren’t causing your bricks to be uneven. A level is also a great way to ensure your bricks are even. With yards and soil, unevenness is to be expected to a degree, but it helps to get as close as you can.
Once your entire edge has been laid, go back and tweak any bricks that aren’t in line with the others. Then you’ll take the leftover sand, and begin filling in the cracks between the bricks. This will help to smother out any weeds/grass that will try to creep up between them. A paver sand or regular sand can be used. Once the cracks are filled with sand, use a broom to sweep away the excess.
Then stand back and enjoy your new brick garden edging! We went on to create a brick path from the patio to our garden area as well. There are so many uses for leftover brick! We have had the edging in place for over a year, and it has held up well. No bricks have fallen out of place, and this includes even when our kids walk along them.

Mortar or Not?

The option is always there to mortar the bricks in this particular brick garden edging, but we opted against this. First, I wasn’t sure how long I wanted to edging in place. Mortaring these bricks together would have made it much more permanent. Our neighbors have a similar brick edging in their front yard, and it is mortared together. It looks lovely, but it was much more work. Secondly, the brick patio (50 years old at least), hadn’t been mortared together and had managed to stay in place all those years. We went with the less labor intensive option, and we are very pleased with the results.

I’d love to know what you use to edge your garden and flower beds. Do you have any other ideas for using up extra brick? Comment below and let me know!

Have a great week and happy gardening!

What is powdery mildew?

Preventing Powdery Mildew

How to Treat Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew Over-Wintering

How to Get Rid of Japanese Beetles

Uses for Neem Oil in the Garden

DIY Weed Killer

Like this:

What are Garlic Seeds?

Hard Neck vs. Soft Neck

When To Plant Garlic

Where To Plant

How To Plant Garlic

Weed, Feed and Water

How To Harvest Garlic

Other Gardening Info to Enjoy:

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Why freeze tomatoes?

The best tomato varieties to freeze

How to use frozen tomatoes

What you’ll need: