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Archives for August 2020

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How to Prune Dill

Dill is an easy to grow annual herb and can be used to flavor recipes or to add fragrance to a flower garden. The attractive fronds and tiny yellow flowers make this plant a welcome addition to a fragrant garden even if you don’t want to grow it for culinary uses.

All plants can benefit from being pruned, and my post on how to prune basil has been one of the most popular on my site. So, there’s an obvious need for learning about pruning herbs and vegetables. Here are some tips on how to prune dill.

The benefits of pruning dill

Although dill is an annual plant, it is self-seeding and will return year after year under the right growing conditions. (You can also easily save dill seed each year for future planting.) Pruning a dill plant will limit the number of seeds the plant produces and will keep the plants from outgrowing their space. An un-pruned plant will bloom proficiently and produce a multitude of seeds per bloom. So, if your goal is seed saving for replanting or using in the kitchen, then let your dill grow wild!

This post may contain affiliate links, which simply means I may earn a commission off of links at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my site!

However, pruning dill will keep the plant looking tidy and force the plant to produce lateral growth so it will be bushier. This is perfect for those who want a larger dill harvest for using in pickling, marinades, drying, and other recipes.

Dill can reach a mature height of 3-feet and since this may cause them to be top-heavy, a gardener will need to be stake them if the plants allowed to grow un-pruned. Pruning dill keeps the plant short and compact so it won’t need to be staked.

When to prune dill

A small number of dill leaves or a couple of stems can be harvested early on, but wait until the plant matures before pruning it heavily. About 8-weeks from the time seeds are planted is when the plant will reach maturity and be ready for heavy, over-all pruning. (Don’t we wish all plants grew this quickly?)

Cut off the tops of the longest stems and even up the remaining stems so the plant has a uniform height and pleasing shape. Don’t cut off more than 1/3 of the plant when pruning or the plant might not recover. 

Prune before the plant sets flowers unless you want it to re-seed for next year or if you want to harvest the seeds.

Best tools for pruning dill

Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or snips to prune dill and make each cut quick and clean. Try not to damage or crush the stem or leaves when pruning. Clean scissor blades by dipping them into a weak bleach solution (1-part bleach, 9-parts water) before and after using them for pruning. This will prevent the spread of disease. (Check out my tutorial on how to clean garden tools.)

As the plant continues to grow, pinch off flowers or wayward stems to keep the plant looking tidy. Dill is really such a wonderful herb to add to a garden space, container garden, or flower bed. And if you’re looking for some delicious ways to use fresh dill, check out these recipes:

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How to Plant, Grow, and Use Borage

Borage might just be the best kept secret of the garden world. An important addition to any garden, this little plant is an easy to grow, self seeding, annual with intricate little blue star shaped flowers. It is a coarse textured plant that can grow to about 3 feet tall, with its leaves and stem covered in fine hairs.

What is Borage?

Borage is a historic medicinal herb with nutritious edible leaves and flowers. The beautiful star flower is not only great for attracting beneficial insects to your garden, but can be used in the kitchen in a variety of ways. 

The Borage plant is native to the eastern Meditererranean region but has been naturalized and cultivated in many other parts of the world. It has been widely used since the time of ancient Rome and has many medicinal benefits. Writers of old mention borage and its ability to bring joy, as well as give courage and comfort to the heart. So why wouldn’t you add it to your garden or flower beds?

Benefits of growing borage

Borage is an easy to grow, ornamental that has many benefits for you and your garden. As a medicinal herb it has several uses such as, decreasing inflammation, improving skin health, and decreasing symptoms of asthma.  

Another name of borage is bee bush because of its amazing ability to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects that help keep your garden pests at bay. Chickens love to eat borage as well, and it is thought to repel pests if spread around their coop. Borage is also great as a green manure or mulch because it has a deep taproot that pulls up nutrients and trace minerals. Simply leave it in your garden when it dies to add organic matter back to the soil, or toss it in your compost pile.

  • Common borage (borago officinalis) is the most familiar variety. It is also known as starflower. Bianca and Alba are popular varieties for growing in pots. They are more compact and sturdy with white flowers.
  • Creeping borage (borago pygmaea) is a sprawling variety that is actually a short lived perennial instead of an annual. It can grow in USDA zones 5 and above.

How to Grow Borage

Zone– Borage grows best in zones 3-10.

Plants or seeds– because of its long and delicate tap root, it may be better to grow borage from seed instead of trying to transplant if you’re a new gardener. Sow seeds in a thin layer of soil and keep them moist. They should sprout in 5-15 days.

Borage can also be grown from transplants, and if you’re careful, they can be successfully moved into the garden. Using plants gives gardeners a bit more freedom in not having to keep seeds moist, but it also is the more expensive option. The choice is really all about preference.

When to plant borage – Plant the seeds in early spring after the first frost. Borage is relatively cold tolerant, but prefers soil temps above 50 degrees. If you are in a very cold climate with a shorter growing season, start seed indoors and transplant when the soil is ready.  

Where to plant– Plant borage in full sun if possible, but it will also tolerate partial shade. My borage plants also tend to lean heavily toward the sun, so keep this in mind when thinking about placement.

Soil Conditions– Borage tolerates a variety of soil conditions, but as with most plants, it does best when planted in well draining, fertile ground. Others gardeners claim that borage can help break up compacted soil, but I personally haven’t had much success with this. (This could be because my kids trampled it before it stood a chance.)

Watering and fertilizing borage

To start, water seeds and seedlings regularly until well established. Don’t add fertilizer at this point, but it is always a good idea to incorporate compost into the soil and mulch to deter weeds and retain moisture.   

Once the plant is established, you can add a good quality organic fertilizer if your borage is planted in soil that is lacking nutrients.

How to Harvest Borage

To harvest borage, cut off the leaves and flowers that you will be using, leaving enough for the plant to continue to thrive. Borage stocks can be a bit prickly, so you may want to wear gloves when harvesting, especially if your skin is sensitive. The leaves are best when harvested young and tender and have a “cucumber-like” taste.

Prune back the plant about half way in midsummer to encourage the growth of new, tender leaves that you can harvest late in the season.

Borage is an annual, but it self seeds so well that you probably won’t have to plant it again once it is established in your garden. That being said, if it starts to take over, or grow in an unwanted area, it is easy to remove by pulling up its shallow roots. Leave it in the garden to add beneficial nutrients, or throw in in your compost pile.

Companion plants for borage

 Borage is a great companion plant for many crops such as

  • cucumber
  • tomato
  • strawberries
  • spinach
  • brassicas
  • legumes
  • squash (it helps deter pests such as cabbage worm.)
  • Another claimed use for borage in the garden is to help any plant that it is interplanted with to resist pests and disease.  See my full post about plants that help deter pests.
strawberries in hand

Borage Growing FAQ’s

  • Is borage the same as comfrey? Borage and comfrey are not the same thing, but they are in the same plant family. Though the plants look very similar when not in bloom, comfrey flowers are shaped like bells while borage has a star shaped flower. They both have medicinal uses and are a good choice for green manure crops to enhance the soil in your garden.
  • Is borage toxic? The prickly stalks may cause minor skin irritation, so it’s a good idea to use gloves when working with borage. You should always use caution when consuming medicinal herbs, especially in large amounts. Consult your doctor before taking borage especially if you have a preexisting condition or take medication regularly. Prolonged use of borage is not advisable, as some of the plants contain small amounts of poisonous alkaloids and can be toxic with sustained use. 
  • Can borage be grown in pots? Yes! Just be sure to give the borage plenty of space (no 3 inch pots for this plant) and feel free to grow it along with another plant, such as a tomato in a large container.

How-to Grow Guides

Learn how to grow all kinds of fruits, vegetables, and herbs in the home garden with my How to Grow guides!

How to Grow and Harvest Peanuts

How to Grow Cucumbers Vertically

How to Grow Potatoes at Home

How to Grow Garlic

How to Grow Pole Beans

How to Grow Peas

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How to Grow Dill in Containers

Container gardening opens up the wide world of plants to those who may not have a yard or garden space. Growing dill in containers is an easy way to begin herb gardening an dyou get dill to use in fresh fish dishes, dill vegetable dip (one of my favorites), and homemade pickles!

Why grow herbs in containers?

Dill is an excellent choice for a container herbs garden for several reasons. Not only is it a beautiful and fragrant plant, but all parts of the plant are edible! True story. It’s also easy to grow, and it can be kept pruned to fit the space where it’s being grown.

This post may contain affiliate links, which simply means I may earn a commission off of links at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my site!

Learn how to grow dill in pots with these easy-to-follow guidelines.

What size pot is best?

Dill forms a long taproot, so it will need a deep pot to grow in. Select a pot that is at least 12-inches deep and equally as wide. If you want to grow a grouping of several dill plants, use a much bigger pot. The pot will need several drainage holes in the bottom to promote good drainage. If you find a pot you love that has no holes, you can create them on your own with a good drill.

Dill is a top-heavy plant and tends to fall once it matures because of its weak and hollow stems. The pot will also need space for a support stake or trellis if you plan to allow the plant to grow un-pruned.

Best soil for growing dill

Use well-drained, loamy potting soil when growing dill in pots. This hardy annual will tolerate poor soil, but it will grow better if you add a cup full of compost to the soil at planting time. And who doesn’t want to give their dill the best shot possible?

Compost will keep the plant fed, promote drainage, and help prevent soil compaction.

When to Plant Dill

If dill is being grown indoors in pots, then the seeds can be planted at any time of the year. Place one seed in prepared pot, moisten soil, cover top of container with plastic wrap, and place in a warm, bright location. When seed germinates, remove plastic wrap and keep soil moist.

When growing in a pot in an outdoor location, wait until spring to plant the seed in a prepared pot. Keep soil moist, but not soaking wet during this early time.

Place pot in a location that receives at least 6-hours of direct sunlight and good air circulation. I like to add dill, a tall and leggy plant, to a pot with low growing plants. It’s a great way to add interest and fragrance to containers!

How to care for dill in containers

Allow the top of soil to become dry to the touch between waterings. (Use the finger test. If your push your finger in the soil and it’s wet, don’t water. If it’s dry, water your plant.) Dill does not like soggy soil and will develop root rot if over-watered. Apply water at the soil level and avoid getting foliage wet to prevent fungal diseases.

Feed plant once a month with water-soluble plant food during the spring and summer. I like Espoma’s organic plant food for a slow release option that’s easy to apply.

For indoor-grown pots of dill, harvest, and prune as needed to keep plant looking tidy but don’t remove more than 1/3 of the plant at a time. When dill is grown in pots outdoors it can be allowed to grow naturally or be kept pruned. An un-pruned dill plant will develop tiny yellow flowers that are filled with edible seeds.

Want to save your dill seeds for using in the kitchen or for planting? Check out my full post on how to save dill seed!

Herb Growing Helps

Get help in the herb garden will these helpful how-to's and tutorials for growing all kinds of herbs at home.

How to Prune Basil for Larger Yields

How to Root Basil from Cuttings

Companion Planting for Vegetables and Herbs

DIY Herb Container Garden

Inexpensive and fun DIY herb container garden that uses a metal Dollar Store bin that is artificially aged. A fantastic garden project that also makes a wonderful gift.

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Blossom End Rot: Prevention and Treatment

No one likes to spend their precious time nurturing a tomato plant, only to have the dreaded blossom end rot show up on their fruits. This common malady on tomatoes can be prevented and potentially treated in established plants, so that all of your hard work and nurturing isn’t all for naught (or rot)!

What is blossom end rot?

Blossom end rot starts at the bottom of a tomato, right where the blossom used to be. It begins as a small black spot that continues to enlarge, causing the tomato tissue to rot and the fruit to become deformed.

This post may contain affiliate links, which simply means I may earn a commission off of links at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my site!

Blossom end rot is a common problem in garden tomatoes and is typically caused by a calcium imbalance within the plant. However, the problem can also be caused by over-watering or under-watering, or a combination of both. So, what’s a gardener to do to keep tomatoes growing strong and healthy?

Calcium-rich soil and consistent watering are essential for preventing blossom end rot in tomatoes, but there are also a few other things gardeners can do to prevent this particular problem.

Blossom End Rot Causes and Prevention

Inconsistent watering, as mentioned above is a common culprit. Too much or too little water hinders the plant from being able to uptake calcium from the soil. 

A calcium deficiency in the soil can also be caused by too much nitrogen or damaged plant roots. This is another reason why having your garden soil tested annually is always a good idea. (See my post here about building up garden soil, which includes details on how to get your soil tested locally for free!)

How to add calcium to your garden

If you’ve been watering consistently and determined that a calcium deficiency is the reason for your blossom end rot, then consider this homemade prevention. Incorporate one-half cup of gypsum and one-half cup of Epsom salt into the soil at planting time to help prevent blossom end rot.

Some other gardeners I’ve talked to over the years also add egg shells to the area where they plan to plant tomatoes. These do take a while to break down, so begin preparing the area in the winter (if possible). Another DIY calcium tip from a fellow Master Gardener is to add a Tums to the planting hole. This gives a quick shot of calcium to the plant! Choose any flavor you want; I don’t think the plant is too picky.

Stop the rot from spreading

Tomatoes with blossom end rot will not recover, remove them from the plant and discard them. In some instances, just the first few tomatoes will be afflicted with blossom end rot. If you notice that all your tomatoes have this issue, then proceed with a course of treatment.

Unaffected green tomatoes will mature normally if the calcium deficiency is corrected.

The plant can be saved with an application of Epsom salt to the plant roots. Mix one-half cup of Epsom salt in a gallon of water and water plants as usual. Sprinkle Epsom salt around plant and work lightly into soil, being careful not to allow Epsom salts to touch plant stem. This will prevent future tomatoes from developing blossom end rot.

Apply mulch

Apply a 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch around tomato plants to help retain soil moisture. This will help with the watering issue that can lead to blossom end rot.

Applying mulch will also prevent weed growth and keep certain types of pests off of plants. Use a good quality natural mulch and avoid the dyed wood chips that can actually prevent water from getting to the roots of the plant. (See this excellent article on the best types of mulches to use in the garden.)

Other preventive measures

Another suggestion is to reduce fertilizer applications during early fruiting, when blossom-end rot is more likely to occur. Nitrogen content is high in most fertilizers and nitrogen increases the chances of tomato plants developing blossom end rot. If you want to use a fertilizer at this point, be sure to choose one that is specific to fruiting plants, such as Big Bloom by Fox Farm, which has no nitrogen. This will still encourage your plant to grow, but won’t give excess nitrogen that your tomato plant doesn’t need.

Also, damaged roots can hinder the ability of the plant to uptake calcium from the soil. Be careful at planting time not to damage roots and during cultivation be careful not to dig too close to plant roots. Check out my article all about how to plant tomatoes to get tips on what to do.

So here’s to a fabulous tomato harvest this year! Don’t let a rotted tomato bottom or two discourage you. Instead, check your watering practices, avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, and add calcium to your soil if needed.

Tomato Growing Helps

Growing tomatoes in your home vegetable garden? Need help with how to plant, grow, prune, and harvest your tomato plants? Here's tips and helps to get you a fabulous tomato harvest!

How to Save Tomato Seeds

How to Prune Tomato Plants like a Pro

Tips for Planting Tomatoes

5 Tips for Growing Tomatoes

How to Freeze Tomatoes (It's so Easy!)

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How to Save Dill Seeds

Growing dill in your garden this spring and summer? Learning how to save dill seeds is so easy, you’ll never buy dill seeds or plants again! All you need is a little bit of patience and a paper plate. Let’s get started.

Yellow dill blooms on green stems

Why save dill seed?

Dill seed has a variety of uses both in the kitchen and in the garden. In the kitchen dill seed can be a flavorful seasoning for any soups and stews as well as pickled vegetables. Serious Eats has some great suggestions for how to use dill seed in the kitchen. Find their article here.

This post may contain affiliate links, which simply means I may earn a commission off of links at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my site!

In the garden, dill is a wonderful companion plant that can help to keep pests at bay. (See my guide to companion plants.) It’s also an herb that adds a bit of height and whimsy to the garden area. The delicate fronds of dill are so dainty and lovely that it’s hard not to admire them. The dill itself can be used in pickling as well as fish marinades and compound butters. If you’re nervous to grow dill in the garden because you immediately associate it with the strong flavor of dill pickles, don’t be! Remember that pickles soak in a dill-infused brine for quite a while, so the flavor is much more intense (and there’s vinegar, so…).

Drying out dill plants

The most effective way to save dill seeds is to let the plants themselves dry out in the garden. I won’t say I’m a lazy gardener, but I am practical. If I can save the step of trimming off the blooms and placing them in a paper bag to dry, then I will.

Let your dill plants produce their beautiful yellow blooms, then simply wait. Your dill plants will be ready to have seeds collected when they are brown and dry.

Don’t want to wait that long? Once plants have finished blooming, but aren’t yet dried out, cut blooms with a length of stem off of the plant. Place the blooms in a brown paper bag with stems sticking out of the top of the bag. Tie up bag and hang for a week or more until dill is brown and dry.

Dill seed heads drying on plant with blue sky in the background

Harvesting dill seed

Once plants are dry, start harvesting the dill seed. Grab a paper plate and one of the dill heads. Use your fingers and begin rubbing the seeds off of the ends of the plant. The seeds should easily come off and land on the paper plate. Repeat this process with all of your dried dill plants until you’ve gotten all of the seeds onto the plate.

Discard the stems and the remnant of the dill plant in your compost pile. (See my guide on how to start composting!)

harvesting dried dill seed on a white paper plate with a blue placemat underneath

How to Store Dill Seed

Dill seed can easily be stored in a glass jar with a well fitted lid, if you’re going to use it for use in the kitchen. (I like this spice jar set that includes labels and a funnel.)

For storing to plant seeds later, use a simple envelope marked with the seed type and date or use a small plastic container. For more ideas on seed storage, check out my seed storage post.

More seed saving ideas

Yield: tons of seeds

How to Save Dill Seeds

yellow dill blooms filled with seeds

Learning how to save dill seeds is quick and easy. One plant can give hundreds of seeds to use for replanting or for recipes in the kitchen.

Prep Time 5 minutes
Active Time 5 minutes
Total Time 10 minutes
Difficulty Easy

Materials

  • Paper Plate
  • Dill Plant
  • Envelope or Plastic Container

Instructions

  1. Begin by letting the flower heads on the dill plant dry out. They will be dry when they are brown and "crunchy" to the touch.
  2. Trim off the seed heads with a bit of stem connected and place on a paper plate.
  3. Over the paper plate, begin rubbing the ends of the seed heads to release the dill seeds.
  4. Once all of the seeds are removed, pick out any stems or miscellaneous pieces.
  5. Store dill seeds in a marked envelope or a sealed container in a cool, dry place. Or place in a glass spice jar for use in the kitchen.

Notes

If you don't want to allow the blooms to dry out completely outdoors. Trim them off the plant and place in a paper bag. Let stay in the paper bag until completely dry, then proceed with the instructions for removing the seeds.

© Courtney
Project Type: Seed Saving / Category: Herb Gardening

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